Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel (1883-1971) founded her fashion house in 1913 and found immediate success with her sporty designs, which were elegant but guaranteed maximum comfort. Her stylish archetypes are still popular today. This long-sleeved, high-necked dress is pleated and continuously cut. Three smooth valances appear at hip level in the front. White ermine at the collar and sleeves reduces the strict character of the dress. The asymmetrical slot closure on the left below the neckline allows the dress to simply be pulled over the head, reminding one of the Kasack form of Russian blouses. Long rep ribbons interwoven with silvery thread and cream coloured bells made of galalith with silk fringes hanging from their ends lie beneath the collar and form a narrow belt at waist level. The upper ribbon additionally displays small woven ornaments in the style of Chinese good luck motifs.


  • Title: Afternoon Dress with Ermine Trim
  • Creator: Gabrielle „Coco“ Chanel
  • Creator Lifespan: 19.8.1883 - 10.1.1971
  • Creator Nationality: French
  • Creator Gender: Female
  • Date: ca. 1922
  • Rights: Photo © bpk - Photo Agency / Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Stephan Klonk │ Text © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Christine Waidenschlager
  • Provenance: 1976, gift of private German collection, Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz
  • Proof of manufacture: Woven label, recto: Chanel, verso: 36753
  • Place of origin: Paris, France
  • Length: Fl./bl. 124 cm
  • ISIL no.: DE-MUS-018417
  • Type: Dress
  • External Link: http://www.smb.museum/museen-und-einrichtungen/kunstgewerbemuseum/home.html

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