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Evening Gown of Gold Lamé and Glass Beads

Attributed to Jean Patouca. 1937

Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin

Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin
Berlin, Germany

This full-length, fitted evening gown with wide swinging skirt has a mother-of-pearl-like lustre. It is made of gold lamé and pearl embroidery. Its shirt-shaped bodice, slightly shortened in front, has a low-slung neckline and arms. The bodice, straps, sides and back are all decorated in a pattern of arc and wave forms that are then ordered into wide parallel ribbons of strung pearl and staff beads. The plaited bands merge at the side and back into pearl embroidered lengths that alternate with the shimmering base material in the skirt. The flowing expanse of the skirt is achieved through the masterfully achieved bias cut. The material and complex tailoring of this gown render it a masterpiece of sartorial art. The dense pearl embroidery did not allow the seams to be sewn together and ironed, as would have been the norm, so the protruding strips of lamé were laid beneath the embroidery and counter-stitched in overlock by hand. The seam allowance was fixed with cross hem stitches.

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  • Title: Evening Gown of Gold Lamé and Glass Beads
  • Creator: Attributed to Jean Patou
  • Creator Lifespan: 27.9.1887 - 23.5.1936
  • Creator Nationality: French
  • Creator Gender: Male
  • Date: ca. 1937
  • Rights: Photo © bpk - Photo Agency / Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Stephan Klonk │ Text © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Christine Waidenschlager
  • Provenance: 2003 Kamer/Ruf collection; 1994 Sotheby’s, London, estate of Lady Zia Wernher (1892–1977), Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz
  • Place of origin: Paris, France
  • Length: Fl. 145 cm, bl. 155 cm
  • ISIL no.: DE-MUS-018417
  • Type: Dress
  • External Link: http://www.smb.museum/museen-und-einrichtungen/kunstgewerbemuseum/home.html
  • Medium: Blue silk, blue, crepe thread, gold lamé (thread around silk lining), shot satin, silk crepe Decoration: opaque-white rod beads, tambour work
Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin

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