Bodice - Corset non Baleiné

For less formal occasions women wore bodices stiffened on only the front rather than fully rigid corsets. This sleeveless bodice with a rigid chest area is covered with splendid salmon-coloured silk in cannelé weave. Multi-coloured flower bouquets are found between ascending bands of clouds. A great deal of attention was paid to the careful symmetrical pattern distribution. Only the front parts of the bodice, which is lined with linen, are fully stiffened, and consist of 30 whalebone stays per side. These are inserted at close fan-like intervals into the opening formed by the linen lining and are affixed by three horizontal strips. Four longitudinal strips and two thicker square strips reinforce the front edges and form a deep downward-drawn busk. The rods close edge upon edge, by means of hand lacing eight looplocking brocaded eyelets. With the exception of two whalebone stays that appear on the right and left of the centre seam, forming a short spatulate pointed waistbusk, the back is not stiffened. Over the hips, the bodice has short peplums, and the straps are cut at the back. The armholes and curve of the hip curve are trimmed in suede. (Leloir 2007: 42, fig. 40 C and C’)