Bodice ornament

This sumptuous and colourful suite of jewellery is a rare surviving example. From 1650 to 1675 ribbon bows were a popular dress trimming. They were often combined with a piece of jewellery which might hang below as a pendant. In this case both the pendant and the ribbon bow are jewelled, with the hessonite garnet ribbons twisting through the silver foliage. The jeweller has set coloured foil beneath the coloured stones to enhance their rich colour.

The design of the jewel cleverly simulates the undulations of real ribbons. The combination of gold and silver accentuates the contrasting colours of the gemstones, adding to the impression of distinct jewelled strands. The reverse of the jewel is elaborately engraved with ribbon and floral motifs.