Brussels-application flounce

Lace edging produced in Brussels-application lace with white thread. The head and body are straight and the crown is finished with dots. On a machine-made tulle ground three lines of small clovers are arranged in the centre and the triangular grid, while in the area of the head, there is a series of wavy stems decorated with flowers, leaves, fruits and tendrils.

Application lace comprises a manual and mechanical part. Brussels-application was one of the most opportune creations of Belgian lace-making centres and acquired significant prestige after the invention of machine-made tulle since it allows large pieces to be produced in different shapes and sizes at a more advantageous price.

The application technique has its roots in when net mesh replaced the ground of bars and plaits. In Belgium the possibility was considered of making grounds and patterns independently: that is, while lacemakers produced the fine bobbin lace grounds for the patterns, motifs also made in bobbin could be applied later.

Lacework made in this way experienced major growth and in the 17th century, England bought almost all of Belgium's production, but faced with economic problems, Parliament decided to suspend imports. Given these measures the English brought Flemish lace-makers to produce a similar lace which was called point d'Angleterre (English point). The difference was that the patterns made were of bobbin but the grounds on which they were applied were of needle lace. Point d'Angleterre lace must therefore not be confused with Brussels lace. Its basic characteristic is that the ground on which the motifs are applied are always machine-made. Application lace, along with Chantilly and Blonde, is the most numerous group in the Díaz Velázquez collection.