Buckle

Object Type
The buckle is made as a single piece, and has two wide loops on the back. It was probably for a woman's belt, which may have been worn high under the bust.

Materials & Making
Steel was relatively inexpensive, but the labour-intensive facetting on the best cut-steel work made it costly. The cut-steel mounts on Wedgwood's Jasper are often attributed to the great Birmingham industrialist Matthew Boulton (1728-1809), a friend and rival of Wedgwood's. In 1786 Wedgwood wrote to explain to him that 'I have left a few sets of my cameo buttons to be mounted, & shall be glad to increase our connection in this way, as well as selling you cameos for your trade, as in having them mounted by you for mine, both in gilt metal & steel'. Wedgwood also supplied Jasper for mounting to Green & Vale of Birmingham and Vernon & Hasselwood of Wolverhampton. Birmingham, Wolverhampton and Woodstock were the chief centres for cut-steel. The painted glass medallion has an engine-turned backing.

Design & Designing
The Jasper reliefs are of the Signs of the Zodiac. These are based on a relief that Wedgwood bought from the London plaster shop of Mrs Landr‚ in 1774.