[Charles Sobieski Stuart]

The fascination for distinctive culturally-specific costumes, exemplified by Afghans (see 84.XM.131.9), did not always involve far-off lands. The nineteenth century saw a renewed interest in the Highland dress of Scotland. Two men who held themselves to be experts in the field of kilts and tartans were Charles Sobieski Stuart (1799?-1880) and his brother John (1795?-1872). The siblings arrived in Edinburgh from the Continent around 1818, claiming to be descendants of Prince Charles Edward Stuart (1720-88). After the prince's defeat in the Jacobite rebellion of 1745, Highland dress was banned from 1746 to 1782. By the end of the eighteenth century, however, tartan was found in the military uniforms of many Highland regiments (see 84.XM.445.3 and 84.XM.445.18). Its popularity increased with the romantic writings of Sir Walter Scott (1771-1832), who was partial to wearing Highland dress and encouraged King George IV (1761-1830) to do likewise upon his state visit to Edinburgh in 1822, effectively giving it the royal seal of approval.

The intriguing figure of Charles Sobieski Stuart is presented in an appropriately fanciful manner. He is shown reclining along a rock wall, dressed in the very apparel of which he claimed expertise. In 1844 Hill and Adamson (David Octavius Hill [1802-70] and Robert Adamson [1821-48]) exhibited a print of Stuart at the Royal Scottish Academy.

Adapted from Anne M. Lyden. Hill and Adamson, In Focus: Photographs from the J. Paul Getty Museum (Los Angeles: J. Paul Getty Museum, 1999), 24. ©1999, J. Paul Getty Museum.