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Lace was among the most highly prized and expensive of all textiles in the 17th century, with its main centres of production in Italy and Flanders. The Flemish industry had a skilled work force and produced the finest linen thread. It was proficient at both following and anticipating the market, including the exacting demands of the French nobility, and benefited from its geographical position and contact with trade routes.

Flemish bobbin lace was the major fashion lace between the 1630s and the 1660s. It held its position by undergoing a series of changes; from the 1630s onwards, the trade was able to produce whatever lace was applicable to the current fashion. The pot of flowers motif, particularly popular in that decade, was perfectly suited to the deep scallops which decorated falling bands. The size of scallops subsequently diminished, to become a straight edge by the mid 1650s. Wide falling bands were replaced in men’s wear by bib-fronted bands, and for women by deep bands (collars) which displayed perfectly the subtle patterns of Flemish bobbin lace, like this example.

Details

  • Title: Collar
  • Creator: Unknown
  • Date Created: 1650/1665
  • Location: Flanders
  • Physical Dimensions: Width: 14 cm lace, Depth: 9 in, Width: 27 in maximum
  • Medium: Linen with bobbin lace worked in linen thread

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