St. Louis Republic, New York, 2 January 1916.
Combinations of Colored Tulles Are Fashionable for Dance Frocks and Brilliant Brocardes Grow in Importance.
New York, 1 January. There is a strong contrast, and a good one, between the clothes for day and night, or, to put it better, for street and house. This is as it should be, but it is a practice that everyone does not follow.
Even the insurgents in clothes have not made much progress against this feeling — Paul Poiret, Leon Bakst, Paul Iribe, have never been able to impress their colorful costumes upon many women until the original daring was modified. There is an instinctive recoil against the blaze of color or the freedom of line in the women of high civilization. No one can fathom this feeling, and it is a thorn in the side of the men mentioned above.
Influence of the scarlet color
But the thread of scarlet is showing more during the war than it has for two decades. Why is this? Don't you think that it is an interesting condition that the wearing of gorgeous clothes comes simultaneously with the letting loose of the primitive instincts in war — that when men go about permitting themselves the indulgence of committing murder in millions, women go about in the evening looking like tropical sunsets?
Back to embroidery
French couturiers made great efforts last summer to reintroduce the fashion for embroidery. The reason was simple — they needed to provide work for the enormous numbers of Parisian embroiderers. The new women’s dresses demonstrate expert embroidery used as both adornment and color decoration. The hat is something like the shape of a drum-major's cap, standing high from the head and nearly covering the eyes; it has no brim, and yet it is not difficult to wear because its surface is plain and not irregular. The entire hat is built up of small pleatings horizontally placed around the form and one of these pleatings juts out over the lower
edge. The only trimming is a close group of tiny ostrich tips placed on the side half way up. It has been introduced as a Louis Phillippe hat. As it is in taffeta, it is quite likely that it will be exploited among the first costumes intended for the Southern exodus.
The hat above is made of black taffeta and decorated with two pink feathers. The evening gown by Worth, with lace skirt, tulle scarf instead of sleeves, and overdress and train of taffeta.