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Dolmány (undercoat) from the wardrobe of Palatine Pál Esterházy

Unknownc.1680

Museum of Applied Arts, Budapest

Museum of Applied Arts, Budapest

Italian dark red cut-pile velvet and lining, point d’Espagne lace, Hungarian tailoring. The dimensions, sewing technique and lining are the same as those of the dolmans from Pál Esterházy’s wardrobe, and the textile of the lining is also the same as the treasury’s other two dolmans (IM, inv. no: 52.2804; 52.2377). The entire surface is covered with lace bands made of gilded silver cord and thread. Repeat pattern of lace: large and small rosettes accompanied by gold leaf shapes and volutes on undulating thick stem. The front fastens with nine “Transylvanian enamel” clasps. The clasp is made up of two hearts on their side, surrounded by leaves, light blue in the centre and decorated with a yellow-petalled flower. The decoration of the heart is similar to a detail of the clasp of the red satin dolman in the Esterházy treasury, but on a larger scale (IM, inv. no: 52.2804.). The sleeve is fastened by ten lobed braid buttons and loops knitted from gold-coloured thread.

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  • Title: Dolmány (undercoat) from the wardrobe of Palatine Pál Esterházy
  • Creator: Unknown
  • Date Created: c.1680
  • Location Created: Hungary
  • Provenance: Acquired from the Esterházy-collection in 1949.
  • Physical Dimensions: h95 cm (Complete)
  • Type: Clothing
  • Rights: Museum of Applied Arts, Budapest, 2013, http://collections.imm.hu/terms-and-conditions
  • External Link: http://collections.imm.hu/gyujtemeny/dolmany-esterhazy-pal-nador-ruhatarabol/855
  • Medium: Dark red cut-pile velvet, covered in bobbin lace of gilded silver and silver thread; lining yellow silk fabric brocaded with (originally) silver-coloured strip; fastens with enamelled clasps.

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