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This leather doublet of 1620–1625 is embroidered with silk. The compact design of stylised floral and leaf shapes incorporates raised satin stitch, French knots, couching and stem stitch. Black silk twist has been embroidered over understitching in brown linen for a raised effect.
The use of leather for a doublet usually indicates an informal garment for outdoor wear, for example hunting or travelling. The very fine embroidery and fashionable style of this example, however implies that it was worn by a member of the aristocracy. The black dye of the embroidery may not have been colourfast, so it is possible the doublet was meant for informal day wear. A high waistline, close-fitting sleeves and the size of the waist tabs are characteristic of the period.

Details

  • Title: Doublet
  • Creator: Unknown
  • Date Created: 1620/1625
  • Location: England
  • Physical Dimensions: Length: 76.6 cm, Circumference: 97.3 cm waist
  • Provenance: Given by Lady Spickernell
  • Medium: Leather, silk taffeta, linen and whalebone, handsewn and embroidered with linen and silk threads

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