Earrings

Jet is the fossilised remains of driftwood. In Britain, the main source is Whitby, in Yorkshire. It became particularly popular in mourning jewellery in the mid 19th century. The first industrial jet workshops in Whitby, using lathes to carve the jet, were set up in 1808. By 1872, the industry employed up to 1500 men, women and children.

Jet was worn at the highest levels of society. It was shown at the Great Exhibition of 1851 and gained the patronage of the Queen of Bohemia. It was also frequently used during mourning. The custom of wearing mourning dress was encouraged by Queen Victoria’s prolonged mourning after the death of her husband Albert in 1861 and became highly formalized.

Jet jewellery could be very fashionable and followed the styles of the day. As jet is light, substantial pieces of jewellery could be worn without discomfort. Its hard, dense nature made it easy to carve and it could be left matt or polished to a high shine.

The jewellery in this parure, composed of a necklace, brooch, bracelet and earrings is carved with medallions of female heads, symbolising 'Night' in a surround of roses and leaves.