Evening dress and belt

This evening dress has the typical high-waisted, fashionable line of 1806-08. It is gathered at the back of the skirt from the high waistline and is very slightly trained to give an elegant silhouette. The bodice, sleeves and hem are decorated with a charming design of trailing nasturtium flowers, leaves and tendrils. The flowers and foliage are worked in naturalistic colours and simple stitches but the embroiderer's choice of chenille to give a soft velvety texture enriches and enhances the three-dimensional qualities of the pattern.

The nasturtium most commonly grown in the early 19th century was a climbing plant with orange flowers. It was popular both for its bright colours and easy cultivation and as a salad plant. It seems a strange choice to decorate an evening gown but the blooms may have carried a message. Many flowers symbolised emotions or carried meanings which are unfamiliar today but were more widely understood in the past. The traditional meaning of the nasturtium was 'patriotism'. This dress was made during the Napoleonic Wars (1793-1815) when Britain was at war with France and it is possible that nasturtiums were chosen to signify the wearer's support for her country and those who were fighting on its behalf.