Female robe 1

Robes of the expensive grades of colorful semi-silk and silk fabrics such as "adras", "shohi", velvet were sewn for residents of the capitals and large cities, where the feudal nobility and rich merchants lived. Citified costume was a kind of standard for the rural province. But first of all these robes were clothing for holidays or weekends, as in everyday life people gave preference to monochromatic fabrics in accordance with Muslim morality code. Robes of adras or just a square of silk were usual gifts for many occasions. At a wedding families of the bride and the groom exchanged them, as well as honorable guests also received such gifts. Women’s robes differed from large men’s ones by more slim fit and narrow sleeves. They were worn over a dress-shirt made of silk or semi-silk for special occasions. By the beginning of twentieth century this kind of robes had vanished from everyday life everywhere except in the Khorezm Region, and were used only in burying rituals.
Bright and colorful range of colors on the robe from the collection of State Orient Museum shows people’s faith in the magic power of color. Dark colors could bring sorrow and gloom, while light and bright colors cheered the eyes and the soul. The entire surface of a robe is decorated with large and slightly curved images of a motif called "buta" or "kalamfur" (peppers) or "bodom" (almond). Along with it there is also a "kuknor" motif (opium poppy). Both these ornaments have not only decorative but also magic functions. “Buta” is supposed to protect from an evil eye, and “kuknor” is a fertility symbol.
The robe was purchased by State Museum of Oriental Art in 1988.