Folding fan with Jephthah meeting his daughter

The fan first became fashionable in Europe at the court of Henri II of France (r. 1547-1559). While these early fans were useful as cooling devices for the often overdressed and therefore overheated couriers fans had many other functions. As Anna Bennett points out, "They were used, on occasion, as memory aids, for parlor games, or for political propaganda, as masks, lorgnettes, cryptic communicators, and of course, accessories in the oldest game, when dalliance was a major preoccupation" (Bennett 1988, 12).

By the 18th century, fans were in use across Europe. Although French artisans and fashion dominated fan design, other countries, including Germany, Italy, and Spain, produced many fine fans. This example is probably English and depicts the Old Testament story of Jephthah's daughter. As is traditional, the biblical figure is shown being greeted by his daughter. He recoils in horror because he has just returned from battle, where he swore to sacrifice the first living thing he sees after a safe return.

The fan's verso depicts a rustic couple with flower baskets. The ivory sticks and guards, which are held in place by a rivet holding a paste jewel, are intricately carved and pierced with Asian-style buildings, temples, and fretwork. Such devices were so fashionable as design elements in the 18th century that the term chinoiserie was coined to describe the vogue.

"Decorative Arts Highlights from the Wendy and Emery Reves Collection," page 38