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The February 1922 edition of the French Vogue reported that: “Vionnet triggered a revolution two years ago … she has proposed clothes to us that not only have no lining, but are closed and that you pull at will over your head …”. This straight cut and unlined shimmering crepe satin evening gown is a typical example of this “revolution”. The top portion falls blouse-like around the hip. To this end a somewhat wider ribbon of silk georgette is attached on the inside at hip level and contains the width at the side with a fold. Below the arms there are wide satin strips decorated with small, hand twisted satin roses. The dress has no closure and is thus, thanks to the wide oval neckline, pulled loosely over the head. From 1919 to 1925 Madeleine Vionnet (1871-1975) worked with the Florentine sculptor, painter and fabric designer Ernesto Michelles (1893-1959), also known as “Thayaht”. He designed textiles, clothes and jewellery for her and for many years illustrated her works in the Gazette du Bon Ton. He likewise designed her company logo, which appears on the original packaging carton. A similar dress can be found at the Kyoto Costume Institute (inv. no. AC 6423 89-21-6).

Details

  • Title: Formal Gown with Rose Trim
  • Creator: Madeleine Vionnet
  • Date: Autumn/winter 1922/23, model: 1264
  • Rights: Photo © bpk - Photo Agency / Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Stephan Klonk │ Text © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Christine Waidenschlager
  • Provenance: 2003 Kamer/Ruf collection; 1989 Sotheby’s, London, Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz
  • Proof of manufacture: Embroidered ribbon, pink on cream Madeleine Vionnet, thumbprint
  • Place of origin: Paris, France
  • Length: Dress: fl./bl. 127 cm, carton: l. 58 cm, w. 38.5 cm, h. 3.5 cm
  • ISIL no.: DE-MUS-018417
  • Type: Dress
  • External Link: http://www.smb.museum/museen-und-einrichtungen/kunstgewerbemuseum/home.html
  • Medium: Black silk satin; decoration: twisted satin strip roses

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