Gown and petticoat

A woman's gown and petticoat of maroon silk satin, with a supplementary pattern weft of white spots and coloured floral sprigs. The gown is in the English (tight-back) style, open down the front with elbow-length sleeves and both a narrow cuff and a sleeve ruffle. The bodice and sleeves are lined with linen. The centre back panel runs shoulder to hem; on either side, one complete width and three partial widths of silk, pleated and sewn to the bodice at the waist, make up the skirts of the gown. The front edges of the skirts are curved with a gathered ruffle, edged with fringe made of white silk gimp and floss. The fringe egdes the sleeve cuff and ruffles and the gown front and neck. There are two silk-covered buttons at the back waist, corresponding to the remnants of ties on the inside back lining; these allowed the skirts to be looped up in the polonaise style. The petticoat is made of five panels of silk, pleated at the waist, with a ruffle edged with the white fringe, at the front.

The gown was probably made in the 1770s and retains most of its original construction. In the 1780s, the robings were opened at the front to allow it to meet edge-to-edge. The lining was altered, possibly for size. The original sleeve ruffles were removed. In the late 19th century, one ruffle and a narrow cuff were added for fancy dress. At this time a pocket of patched silk was added to the right front of the petticoat, and the waist tape replaced.