Martin Margiela for Cotton On GroupSpring/Summer 1998

The Kyoto Costume Institute

The Kyoto Costume Institute

This collarless jacket has the narrowed front bodies and the sleeves were attached to them so as to to produce a flat composition. As the result is a completely flat structure, the narrow front has distorted the breast pocket, so that clear wrinkles are left when the jacket was pressed after sewing. Martin Margiela is highly experimentative, and a lot of his creations are produced with approaches that distinguish him from other designers, including unfinished clothes, clothes reconstructed from second-hand resources, and his vests that mimic Stockman torso. His experimental streak can clearly be seen in this jacket, too.
The Spring-Summer 1998 collection that included this jacket was presented in a joint show with Rei Kawakubo, who has been constantly at the leading edge of fashion since the 1980s. Margiela freely admits that Kawakubo's creations have influenced his own work, and the two designers made an ideal combination. Instead of models wearing the clothes, the collection was shown on hangers presented by staff wearing white clothes, which made the flat structure very evident.

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  • Title: Jacket
  • Creator: Martin Margiela
  • Fashion House: (white cotton tape)
  • Label: (white cotton tape)
  • Manufacturer: Martin Margiela
  • Date Created: Spring/Summer 1998
  • Season: Spring / Summer 1998
  • Type: Dress
  • Photographer: ©The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takashi Hatakeyama
  • Rights: Collection of The Kyoto Costume Institute
  • Medium: Beige polyester; armholes placed forward; pressed after sewing.


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