This early 17th century woman’s jacket is made of silk, a more luxurious fabric than the linen typically used for such garments. However it is made in a loose, informal style not seen in portraiture. The lining of shag (silk velvet with a long pile) suggests the garment was intended for warmth as well as adornment. It is richly embroidered in silver and silver-gilt thread, purl, strip and spangles. The design of rose, marigold, honeysuckle, pansy and lily flowers in a symmetrical interlacing of stems is worked in couched work, satin stitch and stem stitch.
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