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Man's Frock Suit

1858/1862

FIDM MUSEUM & GALLERIES

FIDM MUSEUM & GALLERIES
Los Angeles, United States

Frock Suit: (A) Black wool/silk twill frock coat; peaked notched lapel; double-breasted; five button-holes and buttons at each side; round buttons with cut pile design; waist seam; long sleeves with seams at back; shoulder seams pushed towards back; back princess seams go into armscye; button at the bottom of each princess seam at back; center back seam; collar with center back seam; vent at center back; shallow pleats at either side of vent with pocket hidden inside; pocket lining in brown polished cotton; lining in black cotton sateen; pad-stitching visible at inside; pocket at inside proper left chest; sleeve lining in brown cotton twill.
Label: none
(B) Black wool/silk twill trousers; button-fly with six black enameled round metal buttons and hidden placket; pockets with flap held up by self covered buttons; six enameled round metal buttons with stamped decoration at top of waistband; top waistband edge bound in black petersham ribbon; brass buckle and self fabric tabs at center back waistband lining in off-white fine linen; flat-lining in off-white linen; pockets in brown cotton twill; front lining at hem in heavy canvas.
Label: none
Date: c. 1860

Hat: Black silk plush stovepipe top hat; seven and one-half inches high oval crown with slight flare at flat top; narrow black grosgrain ribbon band at seam of crown and brim; two inch wide oval brim with slight turn-up at sides; brim edged in black grosgrain binding; underside of brim covered in silk plush; three inch band of black leather at lower inner crown; upper crown lined in neutral paper.
Label: "J. P. Thompson\ 108 CENTRAL STREET\ Lowell, Mass." stamped in gold at inner crown top.
Date: 1855-1860

Bowtie: Man's clip-on, pointed-end bow tie of black faille silk; curved stiffened backing covered in white cotton twill; wire button loop wrapped in white thread at CB.
Label: Cotton backing stamped "PAT. FEB. 24-75 W.H.H. JR. PHILA. & NY"
Date: c. 1877

Vest: Man's vest of floral pattern cut velvet; cut velvet features variegated background of black and brown with white floral bunches printed on top in diagonal rows, velvet loops of floral bunches cut; rounded lapels; five shank button closures down center front; buttons covered with black cut velvet along outer edge, brown threads cover center of button with blue and black design applied on top; slash pocket at proper left breast; slash pockets at right and left hip; back of vest of mercerized brown cotton; adjustable back belt of brown self-fabric attached at side seam, metal buckle placed in center; bottom edge of vest curves upward at center back; interior lining of off-white cotton; bottom inner edge of front of vest lined with strip of brown leather.
Label: none
Date: c. 1855

Shirt: Man's white linen shirt with long sleeves and embroidered front; standing band collar with single mother-of-pearl button closure; shoulder seams placed forward on shoulder; set-in sleeves with fullness slightly gathered into French-seamed armscyes; long triangular gussets under arms, towards back; fullness gathered tightly into three inch self-fabric cuffs; seven and one-half inch slit openings with small triangular gusset; one mother-of-pearl closure with second closure of two buttonholes; center front slit opening to waist with three buttonholes on each side of opening; rectangular panel embroidered in white-work with French knot four leaf clusters and scalloped border; fine openwork stripes fill embroidered section, which narrows to waist; self-fabric band reinforces lower seam of rectangular panel; arrow-shaped self-fabric flap with buttonhole at end extends from bottom of panel; shirt skirt gathered tightly into bottom seam of panel; side seams end just below waist with small triangular gussets; shirt front shorter than back; both front and back rounded; fullness of back of shirt tightly gathered into narrow horizontal yoke at upper shoulder.
Label: Initials embroidered in red thread at interior center back yoke/neckline; possibly "VIS".
Date: 1840-1880

Shirt Studs: Jewelry set of red leather box with three hair-work shirt studs inside;
(A-C) Three studs of gold-colored metal in a knotted-branch design; cut-outs on branches expose brown braided hair;
(D) Red leather box in long oval shape with gold clasp; gold accent on lid; lid lined with forest green silk and has label printed in gold; bottom of box holds studs with a forest green velvet base.
Label: "BETHEL JACOBS./JEWELLERS&SILVERSMITH/TO THE QUEEN./HULL." printed in gold on lining of lid; crown emblem printed in gold above text.
Date: 1850-1890

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  • Title: Man's Frock Suit
  • Date Created: 1858/1862
  • Location Created: Suit: Europe or United States Hat: Lowell, Massachusetts Bowtie: United States Vest and Shirt: Great Britain or United States Shirt Studs: Great Britain
  • Physical Dimensions: Coat CB: 38 ¼″ Pant L: 40 ¼″ Hat H: 8 ¼″ Bowtie L: 6 ¾″ Vest CB: 18 ¼″ Shirt CB: 40″ Shirt Studs L: ¾″
  • Provenance: Suit, Hat, Vest and Shirt: Museum Purchase Bowtie: Gift of Ken Weber Shirt Studs: Gift of Andrea Tice in Memory of Carmelita Johnson
  • Type: Suit, Hat, Bowtie, Vest , Shirt, Shirt Studs
  • Rights: © FIDM Museum & Library, Inc. Image made available for limited non-commercial, educational, and personal use only, or for fair use as defined in the United States copyright laws. Users must cite the author and source of the image as they would material from any printed work, and the citations should include the URL “www.fidmmuseum.org”. For publication or press requests, visit http://www.fidmmuseum.org/about/rights-and-reproductions/ or email imagerights@FIDMmuseum.org.
  • Medium: Frock Suit: Wool broadcloth & wool / silk twill Hat: Silk plush, wool felt, silk grosgrain, leather, & cardboard Bowtie: Silk faille, cotton twill & wire Vest: Velvet brocade & mercerized cotton Shirt: Linen & linen embroidery floss Shirt Studs: Engraved gold & human hair
FIDM MUSEUM & GALLERIES

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