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The city of Brussels is usually associated with fine bobbin lace, but needle lace of high quality was also made there, competing with French lace in the market for customers. Brussels needle lace, such as these lappets, was characterised by the variety of fancy filling patterns in its motifs, and the exceptional fineness of its linen thread, making it light-weight and delicate. This delicacy was a quality particularly sought after in lace lappets, which were intended to flutter loosely around the face, and let the light shine through their semi-transparency.

Lappets formed part of a head dress, known as a 'lace head' in the 18th century. It was composed of a curved panel, the cap back, to which two long streamers were attached, called lappets. These lappets can be dated by their shape, with rounded ends and gently scalloped edges, and the relationship of their design to fashionable woven dress silks of the 1740s, with which they were worn. Although white, they might have provided the finishing touch to an ensemble of rich and vibrant colours.

Details

  • Title: Pair of lappets
  • Creator: Unknown
  • Date Created: 1740/1749
  • Location: Brussels
  • Provenance: Bequeathed by Lady Ludlow
  • Medium: Needle lace worked in linen thread

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