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Rose-purple Women’s Satin Padded Jacket with Necklace Patterns on Shoulder Front

Museum of Ethnic Costumes, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology

Museum of Ethnic Costumes, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology
Beijing, China

The most eye-catching part of this jacket is the embroidered yingluo-style necklace pattern by gold couching embroidery above the bust. Yingluo was originally a neck ornament for Buddha statues in ancient India and was introduced to China together with Buddhism. With flexible forms, yingluo can refer to either a simple circle made of precious metal, necklace with a pendent, a string of beads, or a locket.
Fifteen strands of gold threads were divided into five groups, each of which woven into a 0.4cm-wide braid, intertwining with a 0.4cm-wide blue and white stripe, creating 16 groups of ruyi patterns fixed with yellow silk stithes. Among these ruyi patterns which signify wishes coming true, eight are in a cloud shape which represent feminine beauty while the others with the form of a square lock representative of masculinity. These two groups of auspicious motifs, by alternating with each other, form a half circle with the collar as the center, creating a beautiful decorative necklace with auspicious meaning. These golden embroidered motifs, covering the entire area of above the bust, give viewers a sense of solemnity and grandeur.

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  • Title: Rose-purple Women’s Satin Padded Jacket with Necklace Patterns on Shoulder Front
  • Date: Late Qing and Early Republican China (ca. Early 20th Century)
  • Original Source: http://www.biftmuseum.com/
  • Physical format: 100cm×130cm
  • Ethnic group: Han
Museum of Ethnic Costumes, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology

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