Sensational Fashions Are Absent
Early winter styles are mostly pleasing, graceful, moderate and still very desirable.
New York, September 4. – New winter fashions are not sensational and not strikingly new. They are pleasing, graceful, moderate and, therefore, acceptable. What more would you?
All the houses have finished with their collections, so there is nothing else to fear. American houses will not introduce anything radically different.
The controlling influence in fashion, its dominating force, will not come into being until the first of October, although all the leading American buyers who are in Paris know what the new fashions are.
A powerful revival of the Russians
Instead of going back to history, as everyone thought it was probable that the French designers would do, they went back to Russia. This is only a step backward in the right direction. It may be claimed that we have never got out of the Russian influence since the Russian ballet under the wizardry of Leon Bakst held Paris in thrall.
America did not get the full tide of the Russian fashions. The women did not accept them, probably because they had not had the inspiration and enthusiasm that came from seeing the marvelous ballet itself.
No designers advance Victorianism. No one asks for the tiny waist. Everyone agrees on the well-known points of the Russian fashions as they are imbedded in the national dress.
Callot gives up afternoon and evening wraps entirely. She supplants them by gorgeous Russian coats that reach to the ankles.
Madelaine Cheruit, also, makes a point of her Russian coats for afternoon and evening.
Her narrow skirt has not been enlarged, which may account for so many narrow evening. She uses trains, snake-like affairs, as she has always done.
These features are surely not Russian, and they will serve to offset any undue popularity of one leading style.
The absence of startling variations shown in advanced models, and the upcoming season of “quiet styles” are quite noticeable.
A Velvet and Fur Season.
Each of the fashion openings in France has proved that everyone who can afford velvet and fur, singly or in combination, will very likely do so. Street suits are again made of velvet and afternoon frocks are usually of faille, that old-fashioned silk that is a relic of 1880. It will be trimmed with fur. Velvet, in the Russian manner, will be smothered in it.
Green to the front again.
Black velvet jacket worn with a green cloth skirt which is fastened in front with large pearl buttons, and a green felt hat with a black velvet band.