Shawl with Jari Embroidery

late 19th century CE

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (CSMVS)

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (CSMVS)

This is a beautiful example of a woollen shawl with jari embroidery. Such shawls were used in royal weddings as shoulder mantle for the bridegroom. Embroidery on woollen shawls were done in Lahore, Delhi and Gujarat. This shawl has an elaborate embroidered border with small and large kalgi (paisley) motifs with a six-petaled stylized flower in between. The corners have exquisitely embroidered paisley within a cartouche.

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  • Title: Shawl with Jari Embroidery
  • Date Created: late 19th century CE
  • Location: India
  • Type: Shawl
  • Medium: Pashmina Wool with jari embroidery
  • Region: Punjab
  • History of Style of Technique: In Indian textile tradition, pashmina shawls from Kashmir hold a pride place. They were made of wool from a special breed of goat called pashm. A single shawl was a result of the collective eff orts of spinners, dyers, designers, weavers and embroiders. The designs composed of buta, badami (almond), ambi or kairi (paisely), meander and fl ora, khat-rast (stripes) and shikargah (hunting) motifs. The craft of making the woollen shawls received immense patronage from Mughal emperors. As mentioned in the Ain-i-Akbari, Emperor Akbar gave these shawls the name param naram meaning very soft. It was a special prerogative of the royal to wear such shawls. Others could wear it only if it was presented by the ruler or permitted by him. In the 17th and the 18th centuries, both embroidered and woven shawls from Kashmir were in great demand by the Europeans and by affl uent families in India. In the 20th century these shawls were considered a signifi cant gift at the time of weddings in particular by Parsis. Apart from shawls, doshalas (shoulder mantle), patkas (sash or kamarbandha), rumals (square shawls), jamewars (garment piece to stitch jama) were also made.
  • Accession Number: 86.14