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Striped Women's Gown - Robe à la polonaise

Unknownca. 1775

Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin

Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin

During the last third of the 18th century it was customary to draw the skirts of the manteau above the jupe, which was still only ankle-length. This was called robe à la polonaise, alluding to the tripartite division of Poland after 1772. The lower skirt was now visible all around. While the robe à la polonaise was continuously cut without waist seam in France, one resorted to informal clothes with a fitted back in England, as illustrated by this striped polonaise. The manteau has a fitted back with continuous drapery en fourreau, the outwardly laid folds run together narrowly at the waist, and the abundance of material transitions into the skirt. The skirt is attached to the right and left of this, laid in the finest of small folds. Its arch-shaped seam makes the waist appear particularly delicate. The two fabric-covered buttons are used for holding high the manteau. The original linen fastening straps have been preserved. The front wings of the manteau are cut out and are fastened in the centre front with hook and eyes. The jupe, entirely crafted from the striped primary fabric, has a circular ruffled trim. Like the skirt, the edges of the manteau’s neckline and décolleté are adorned with finely pleated frills. The medium-length sleeves are worn with ruffled cuffs en sabot. A bustle now replaces the wide farthingale.

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  • Title: Striped Women's Gown - Robe à la polonaise
  • Creator: Unknown
  • Date: ca. 1775
  • Stylistic point of origin: England
  • Rights: Photo © bpk - Photo Agency / Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Stephan Klonk │ Text © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Christine Waidenschlager
  • Length: Manteau: fl./bl. 146 cm, skirt: fl./bl. 98 cm, stomacher: l. 34 cm
  • ISIL no.: DE-MUS-018417
  • Provenance: Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz, 2003 Kamer/Ruf collection; 1990 Christie’s, London
  • Type: Dress
  • External Link: http://www.smb.museum/museen-und-einrichtungen/kunstgewerbemuseum/home.html
  • Medium: Silk, cream, pastel yellow, celadon green and pink pékin with partial jaspé effect; lining: natural-coloured linen, silk pongé

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