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Suit Dress

Adrian1941 - 1945

Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin

Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin
Berlin, Germany

Gilbert Adrian Greenburgh (1903-1959) was chief designer for Metro Goldwyn Mayer from 1929 to 1941. While there he designed, among other things, costumes for Greta Garbo for many years. The broad-shouldered silhouette he developed in 1932 for Joan Crawford in the film “Letty Lynton”, which would influence fashion up until the end of World War II, was particularly significant. In 1941, he founded his own Couture house, “Adrian Ltd,” with ready-to-wear line in Beverly Hills. Although he now concentrated on models for working women, he knew how to lend an elegant glamour to strict cuts, as displayed by this piece. The tailored, hip-length jacket is high-necked and has a small, rounded turndown collar and long narrow sleeves. Slanted slash side pockets appear at hip level on both sides. The jacket closes with threeself-covered buttons and an internal hook and eye. A band of natural coloured wool, a simple yet striking military-like accent runs diagonally from the left shoulder to the right side, ending at waistlevel in the back. The band is adorned with three groups of five brass buttons. The jacket is fully lined with crepe marocain. The straight, three-quarter length skirt has a short kick pleat in the back and hook and eye closure in the waistband with a zipper on the left.

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  • Title: Suit Dress
  • Creator: Adrian
  • Creator Lifespan: 3.3.1903 - 13.9.1959
  • Creator Nationality: American
  • Creator Gender: Male
  • Date: 1941 - 1945
  • Rights: Photo © bpk - Photo Agency / Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Stephan Klonk │ Text © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Christine Waidenschlager
  • Provenance: 2003 Kamer/Ruf collection; 1992 Christie’s, London, Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz
  • Proof of manufacture: Two woven yellow on black labels in jacket: Gunther Jaeckel New York and white on black: Adrian Original
  • Place of origin: USA
  • Length: Jacket: fl./bl. 64 cm, skirt: fl./bl. 69 cm
  • ISIL no.: DE-MUS-018417
  • Type: Suit
  • External Link: http://www.smb.museum/museen-und-einrichtungen/kunstgewerbemuseum/home.html
  • Medium: Twill weave black serge wool, plain weave natural coloured wool, wool cloth, brass coloured ornamental buttons, plain weave regenerated cellulose, crepe marocain Lining: twill weave regenerated cellulose, shoulder pads
Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin

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