Supportasse

During the early 17th century, formal neckwear such as ruffs and starched collars needed support. Flat collars and the wide circles of gathered linen that made up ruffs had to be held up at the back of the neck in order to frame the face properly. Such supports were called by a range of different names: ‘supportasse’ (a French term), underpropper, pickadil or rebato (an Italian name). A variety of materials were used to make such supports; this example is made of linen reinforced with whalebone, card and wire. A close analysis of this supporter determined that it was once stuffed with straw to create a slightly curved surface. This would have made a linen band worn on top fall gracefully from the neck of the wearer. The supporter is open in front, probably intended for a woman’s low-necked gown or bodice.