In the 18th century, the white collars previously worn around the neck for adornment were replaced by black tiffany shawls. In the course of the 19th century, the smaller, flat, disc-shaped clasps initially used to tie the ends of the shawls together at the throat then developed into large, decorative tiffany clasps. Their functionality increasingly receded into the background. They were frequently given as engagement gifts. Schwäbisch Gmünd, the town where this clasp was made, has been the leading southern German centre for the production of filigree jewellery since the end of the 17th century.