Waistcoat

The high waist and full sleeves set into the back of this waistcoat are characteristic of women’s dress of the 1630s. The style of embroidery is quite unusual: a striking design of meandering lines rather than the naturalistic floral patterns typically seen on earler embellished waistcoats. This abstract design is probably imitating the ‘wave and flower’ patterns of Italian woven silks of the 1620s and 1630s. The sycamore motif used here may be symbolic of sorrowful love. Also unusual is the waistcoat’s modest fabric; a mix of cotton and linen, called fustian, which was often used for linings. The embroidery, however, is carried out in silver thread and embellished with silver bobbin lace and silver spangles.