Waistcoat

Both the colour and the design of this sleeved linen waistcoat show the influence of textiles imported into Britain from India. The shape and configuration of the leaves and flowers imitates similar designs on painted Indian cottons. Filling the space between is a pattern of meandering lines, known as ‘vermicelli’, which is Italian for ‘little worms’. This design is also found on early 18th century bedcovers and quilts, particularly worked in yellow silk. The choice of colour mirrors imported Indian embroideries, which preferred the natural yellow shade of tussar silk found in Bengal. Such a light fabric and colour palette for a waistcoat of the 1720s suggests that it was worn during the summer for informal occasions.