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Brown Walking Dress

Unknownca. 1855

Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin

Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin
Berlin, Germany

After 1845 skirts became larger and in the 1850s achieved a consistent dome-like form that was often accentuated with ruffles. This finely pleated skirt is decorated at the waist with three ruffles in an exquisite à disposition woven pattern of transversely placed ovals. The ovals, within which black and white polka dots are grouped around a reddish brown matte core, are reminiscent of a lively pen and ink drawing of partridges, and taper upward. The lower flounced edges end in a similar use of forms with a curved pattern. The separate bodice has a stylish front button closure and its rounded tails, short in front and longer in the back form, the uppermost ornamentation of the skirt. The dropping shoulders are emphasized by double trim and decorated with partridge patterned tassels. The long sleeves, which widen into a pagoda shape, are set beneath. These also terminate in a double partridge-patterned flounce with fringe border. The bodice is fully lined in white silk, which is emphasized by the red trim at the sleeve. The skirt is unlined and it has an impact shielding braid trim at the hem. Beneath the ruffles one can see that it was made of numerous separate pieces, it is pieced together thus saving material.

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  • Title: Brown Walking Dress
  • Creator: Unknown
  • Date: ca. 1855
  • Stylistic point of origin: France
  • Rights: Photo © bpk - Photo Agency / Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Stephan Klonk │ Text © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Christine Waidenschlager
  • Provenance: 2003 Kamer/Ruf collection; 1988 Christie’s, London, Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz
  • Length: Bodice fl. 49 cm, bl. 57 cm, skirt fl./bl. 116 cm
  • ISIL no.: DE-MUS-018417
  • Type: Dress
  • External Link: http://www.smb.museum/museen-und-einrichtungen/kunstgewerbemuseum/home.html
  • Medium: Fawn coloured silk taffeta with interwoven pattern; trim: silk fringes, ornamental wood-covered trim buttons; lining: silk
Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin

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