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“Delphos” Evening Gown

Mariano Fortunyca. 1930

Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin

Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin
Berlin, Germany

Painter, photographer, chemist, physicist and inventor, Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949) of Spain, who was inspired by his father’s collection of historic fabric, engaged with fabric design and fabric printing time and again. Although he was not a fashion designer, the pleated silk gowns in antique Greek style, known as “Delphos”, belong to his best-known creations. In 1909 he patented the art of producing this finely pleated silk. In spite of various drawings, however, his exact production process remains unknown. Although Fortuny did not advertise, these clothes were tremendously successful and were produced with small alterations and in different colour schemes until the 1940s. In order to maintain the elastic folds these pieces were twisted into skeins and kept in small boxes. It was not the actual fashion line that was important for Fortuny, but the beauty of the texture that caressed the human body, without constricting or concealing it. Early models displayed overlapped shoulders that formed short sleeves, but from the 1920s on the pieces were sleeveless. The transverse oval cutout in the neckline was shirred with a tunnel ribbon. The side was adorned and weighted down by cording trim into which Venetian glass beads were inserted. The simple belt of the dress on the right with gold coloured print has a hook and eye closure.

Details

  • Title: “Delphos” Evening Gown
  • Creator: Mariano Fortuny
  • Creator Lifespan: 11.5.1871 - 3.5.1949
  • Creator Nationality: Spanish
  • Creator Gender: Male
  • Date: ca. 1930
  • Rights: Photo © bpk - Photo Agency / Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Stephan Klonk │ Text © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Christine Waidenschlager
  • Provenance: 2003 Kamer/Ruf collection; 1994 Robert Millon, Paris, Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz
  • Proof of manufacture: Printed: MADE IN ITALY – FABRIQUE EN ITALIE – FORTUNY DEPOSE
  • Place of origin: Venice, Italy
  • Length: Fl./bl. 146 cm
  • ISIL no.: DE-MUS-018417
  • Type: Dress
  • External Link: http://www.smb.museum/museen-und-einrichtungen/kunstgewerbemuseum/home.html
  • Medium: Pleated cream coloured silk satin, silk cord, opaque glass beads

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