Kesi Accessory

This piece of T-shaped accessory was made of kesi, a silk tapestry literally meaning “cut silk”, named for the cut-like edges of patterns on the foundation weave. It is woven by obscuring the weft threads with warp yarns using a small shuttle, thus creating patterns on both the front and the back. Such a technique, originated in the Mediterranean region, was first applied to wool fabrics and later introduced to the Eurasian Continent. Several pieces of kemao fabrics, “cut-wool” literally, with patterns typical of Greek art were unearthed in Xinjiang. Later in the period between early and High Tang dynasty, namely, around the 7th century, this “cutting-wool” technique started to be experimented on silk textiles in China.
Hemmed with red-foundation weft-faced jin-silk, this item features floral and standing-bird patterns typical of the art of the Tang dynasty (618-907 AD). Similar decorative motifs were also found on the kesi tapestry relics excavated in Mogao Caves of Dunhuang.