The Oldest Sake Brewery in Kyoto

Tastes of tradition and innovation

By Kyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

Kyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

Frontal view of Matsui Sake Brewery, The oldest sake brewery in Kyoto (2019-01) by Matsui Sake BreweryKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

A
sake brewery surrounded by rich nature

Matsui Shuzō (Matsui Sake Brewery) has a shop on the first floor of a condominium which is surrounded by the Higashiyama mountains and Kamo River, with the Imperial Palace and Shimogamo Shrine to the west and a view to Mt. Daimonji to the east.

Frontal view of the Matsui Sake Brewery, The oldest sake brewery in Kyoto (2019-01) by Matsui Sake BreweryKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

The
beginning

Matsui Shuzō is one of the very few sake breweries that remains in operation in Kyoto today. The history of the brewery began in 1726, during the Edo period, at Kasumi-chō in Hyōgo prefecture facing the Sea of Japan. After relocating to Takeyamachi at Kawaramachi in Kyoto, it was finally relocated to the currently location at Yoshida-Kawaramachi in Sakyō-ku at the end of the Taishō period.

Inside the Old Matsui Sake Brewery, The oldest sake brewery in Kyoto (2019-01) by Matsui Sake BreweryKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

Temporary
closure and revival

Sake production was forced to stop due to underground construction work in the neighbourhood during the latter half of Shōwa 40s (around 1970-1974). The brewery was relocated to Fushimi, where sake production resumed in cooperation with several other brewers. Matsui Shuzō’s Kamogawa Brewery was revived in 2009 and has been in operation since.

Kayoi dokkuri (returnable sake bottle), The oldest sake brewery in Kyoto (2019-01) by Matsui Sake BreweryKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

The brewery has been producing sake with the same unchanging spirit for 290 years since its establishment. 

A corridor connecting to the sake brewery, The oldest sake brewery in Kyoto (2019-01) by Matsui Sake BreweryKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

The oldest sake brewery in Kyoto

Sakekasu (sake lees), The oldest sake brewery in Kyoto (2019-01) by Matsui Sake BreweryKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

Hand-brewing

At Matsui Shuzō sake is being caringly brewed slowly in small amounts. This is because they believe the care given by the sake maker becomes part of the sake being created.

Moromi, The oldest sake brewery in Kyoto (2019-01) by Matsui Sake BreweryKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

This is where the moromi (the main fermenting mash) process takes place. The faint sounds created by the fermentation can be hear. The sake maker listens to the sounds and observes the fermentation to determine the condition of the moromi. Such dedicated checks by the sake maker allows the sake to gain a more profound flavor.

Bottling, The oldest sake brewery in Kyoto (2019-01) by Matsui Sake BreweryKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

Sake is bottled individually by hand using a mechanical valve.

Sake Tanks, The oldest sake brewery in Kyoto (2019-01) by Matsui Sake BreweryKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

Machine-brewing 

The brewery is equipped with state-of-the-art facilities for quality improvement. Thorough temperature control by machine is vital for the enjoyment of freshly distilled sake taste.

Solar power generation, The oldest sake brewery in Kyoto (2019-01) by Matsui Sake BreweryKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

Fine sake can only be produced within beautiful nature. To ensure sake brewing can continue in beautiful Kyoto, solar power generation has been adopted by the brewery to cover about 60% of the electricity required for sake brewing.

Sake dedicated to temples and shrines, The oldest sake brewery in Kyoto (2019-01) by Matsui Sake BreweryKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

Sake
dedicated to temples and shrines

The brewery produces special sakes for orders from Rokuon-ji known for its Golden Pavilion and Jishō-ji known for its Silver Pavilion. It is also the purveyor of sake to many historical temples and shrines such as Shōkoku-ji, Yoshida Jinja, Kitano Tenmangū, Matsuo Taisha, and Iwashimizu Hachimangū.

Setsubun Festival at Yoshida Jina, The oldest sake brewery in Kyoto (2019-01) by Matsui Sake BreweryKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

Yoshida
Jinja

The brewery participates the Setsubun Festival with a stall at Yoshida Jina to help celebrate the traditional festival that has been continued since the Muromachi period (1336-1573). During the Karosai event participants enjoy sake around the fire to wish for health and safety.

Matsui Sake Brewery: Oldest sake brewery in Kyoto (2019-03-01) by Matsui Sake BreweryKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

Shop display of the Matsui Sake Brewery, The oldest sake brewery in Kyoto (2019-01) by Matsui Sake BreweryKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

Matsui
Shuzō’s sake

Kagura, The oldest sake brewery in Kyoto (2019-01) by Matsui Sake BreweryKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

Kagura is a non-distilled, non-pasteurized and un-diluted sake produced at the Kamogawa brewery which was revived for production at the very location of the Matsui Shuzō’s establishment.

Kyō Chitose and Fuji Chitose, The oldest sake brewery in Kyoto (2019-01) by Matsui Sake BreweryKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

Kyō Chitose is a sake created with the wish that Kyoto, the ancient capital, would thrive eternally. It is popular among traditional restaurants in Kyoto. Fuji Chitose is a brand that has been continued since the brewery’s establishment. It was named with the wish that sacred Mt. Fuji would remain eternally. 

Hakuginkaku and Kinkaku sanzen, The oldest sake brewery in Kyoto (2019-01) by Matsui Sake BreweryKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

The label design on Hakuginkaku ("the White Silver Pavilion") is the Ōehogyo-zu ("fishing on a great river") painting by Tomioka Tessai (1837-1924) in the Jishō-ji temple, also known as Ginkaku-ji (the temple with the silver pavilion).  Kinkaku sanzen ("the Golden Pavilion Shining") is made for Rokuon-ji temple, famous for its golden pavilion. It is a luxurious clear sake containing pure gold leaf flakes.

Sake rice, The oldest sake brewery in Kyoto (2019-01) by Matsui Sake BreweryKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

The
brewery’s wishes

"Mushigutsu" Old straw boots used in sake brewing factory, The oldest sake brewery in Kyoto (2019-01) by Matsui Sake BreweryKyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory

Tradition
and innovation

Matsui Jiemon, fifteenth generation, says that the brewery endeavours to deliver authentic tastes, as well as innovate and protect what has been passed down.

Credits: Story

Supported by: Matsui Sake Brewery

Movie by: Kengo Takayama

Photography by: Dr. Shinya Maezaki

Text by: Sonoka Hashigami and Chinatsu Matsumoto

Translation by: Eddy Y.L. Chang

This exhibition was created by: Sonoka Hashigami and Chinatsu Matsumoto

Project Directors:
Dr. Shinya Maezaki, Associate Professor, Kyoto Women's University

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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