Alexis Lavigne: Revolutionizing Fashion Theorie


The life story of ESMOD’s founder, a French fashion visionary.

Alexis Lavigne, an active player of the industrial revolution
Born in March 22nd 1812 in Paris’ 1st arrondissment, Alexis Lavigne apprenticed as a tailor doing a “Tour de France” as a journeyman for master tailors before opening a Paris shop, cour des Fontaines. His defining feature? Being one of the first master tailor theorist.

Inventor of the mannequin and the tape measure, his work led him from hand-crafted manufacturing to industrial production, democratizing access to fashion, which was reserved to an elite until then.

Later on, he would set up a school to teach his method which is now, 175 years later, set up in 15 countries around the world under the name of ESMOD!

Alexis Lavigne et les années 1840
Alexis Lavigne, a body shape observer of the 19th century’s society

In the 1840’s, men would dress according to British “dandism” trends.

Détail d'un manteau de la collection de David Wong (ESMOD, promo 2016). Héritage des méthodes de tailoring initiées par Alexis Lavigne

Unlike men’s fashion, women’s fashion is inspired by extravagances from the past defined by a subtle fit, exaggerations in the shapes and refined ornaments.

Création d'Antoine Denis (ESMOD, promo 2016) montrant qu'aujourd'hui, la Haute Couture s'inspire encore des lignes corsetées de la mode féminine de l'époque, avec des choix de matières parfois plus audacieux. Ici des broderies réalisées à base de pailles recyclées.

Alexis Lavigne, editor-in- chief of the Fashion-Thérorie
Alexis wonders where the trends are coming from while “clothing manufacturers” appear in the streets of Paris, selling affordable ready-to- wear suits. Inspired by this standardization, he will work on possible ways to make his profession evolve.

Défilé ESMOD Paris (promo 2016)

Aujourd'hui, les phénomènes de tendance sont de plus en plus présents dans l'industrie de la mode qui propose chaque saison, à travers les fashion week, de nouvelles propositions de styles qui sont relayées par les magazines de mode dont Fashion Théorie est l'un des ancêtres.

Extrait d'une page de tendances tirée du journal PLANETE ESMOD (N° de juillet 2016), édité par l'école ESMOD

Alexis Lavigne, master tailor and publisher
Seen by many as one of the most renowned master tailors in Paris, he becomes the first to publish a cutting method based on his technical approach in 1841.

While a large majority of tailors use approximate measures taken from their clients, Alexis emphasizes on the importance of starting from the clients body measures in order to create his suit.

His method is simple: draw a pattern according to the client’s measures and build a muslin molding of his body in order to produce the final garment after only one fitting.

Sélection d'ouvrages des collections des Editions ESMOD aujourd'hui, héritage des méthodes de coupes d'Alexis Lavigne.

Des ouvrages qui abordent des sujets de plus en plus vastes tels que le dessin de mode, mais aussi le merchandising produit ou l'histoire de la mode.

Credits: Story

Merci à tous les contributeurs étudiants et staff ESMOD

Retrouvez toutes les informations sur l'école et le groupe ESMOD

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Credits: All media
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