Giorgio Armani Collection
In Europe throughout the 1970s, Giorgio Armani was known for his ready-to-wear lines of Italian tailoring for men and women. His popularity spread to the US when Richard Gere wore his clothes in the 1980 film American Gigolo. In 1991, he introduced the A/X Armani Exchange lines and boutiques.
Opened in 1925, Fendi maintained its reputation for innovation in fur designs for more than 90 years and three generations. The house has since introduced experiments with color (from 1969) and structure. Fendi’s leather-lined furs were described in Vogue (August 1986) as having “enveloping scale and a shape as effortless—with an attitude as easy—as a wrap robe,” and credited with turning fur from status symbol to fashion.
Christian Lacroix Collection
Christian Lacroix—born in Arles, 1951—studied art and costume history before turning to fashion design. He worked for Hermes before presenting collections under his own name. His couture garments were admired for their palette of colors and surface decoration. Lacroix is also known as a costume designer, remembered for his innovative adaptations of 19th-century forms—such as the corset and pouf over-skirt—shown in his work with Madonna and for ballet productions.
Calvin Klein Collection
Calvin Klein was born in the Bronx, 1942, and studied at the Fashion Institute of Technology. He was an influential designer of tailored women’s suits and cocktail-length dresses, which are shown here. His sportswear collections also thrived following the introduction of his extremely popular jeans line in 1976.
Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Collection
Karl Lagerfeld—born in Hamburg, 1938—trained in Paris. He was associated with the couture houses of Balmain, Patou, and (for 20 years) Chloé. He maintains both his own lines of fashion and accessories, but the garments shown at Carnegie Hall represent his work for Chanel. The blue and orange garments demonstrate his designs based on Coco Chanel’s late-career triumph, the hip-length “Chanel suit.” Elements of the other two outfits, such as the contrast binding on the white jacket, also refer to Chanel designs.
Issey Miyake Collection
Born in Hiroshima, 1938, Issey Miyake is honored as a founder of the Japanese avant-garde fashion movement. He was trained in graphic design and studied tailoring in Paris. He had been known for his loose, unstructured clothes. But, for the the 1989-1990 seasons, he was experimenting with the stretch polyesters, very short shorts (on stage-right models) and cropped bodices (stage left), shown here over body suits.
Carolyne Roehm Collection
Mentored by Oscar de la Renta, Carolyne Roehm was known for her glamorous evening wear made with brocades and lustrous satins. That season in particular, her collection featured split overskirts. She was the president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America in 1990 and a supporter of Carnegie Hall. She is currently also known as a lifestyle writer and expert.