How Fine Art is Created in Chamba

The process of embroidering a Chamba rumal

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Chamba Embroidery: Product (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The basic fabric used to embroider a Chamba rumal was hand spun, hand-woven cloth called khadi. It was woven in many villages in India and became the ‘fabric of freedom’ as a political activity after a call by Mahatma Gandhi during India’s movement for Independence from British rule. Finely handwoven cotton muslin cloth was also used. This gave the embroidered piece a softness expected of a kerchief although it not for common use as one. 

Chamba Embroidery: Product (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Presently khadi, cotton muslin and even unbleached silk cloth is used as a base fabric on which to embroider. Threads were generally of untwisted silken floss which gave a satin-like surface texture when used to completely cover a surface area with embroidery. Now silk threads used by women are purchased on spools from the market.  

Chamba Embroidery: Process (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The technique followed is for a miniature artist to visualize and create a painting, and then sketch its outlines in with charcoal or pencil on to the fabric. The colour palette is usually decided by the artist whose aesthetics are more finely tuned. 

Chamba Embroidery: Process (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A fine white muslin fabric has been used by the artist to draw the scenes to be embroidered on a Chamba rumal.

Chamba Embroidery: Process (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Detail of the nature of Kangra art that forms a basis for embroidery. Clear outlines of figures, floral trellises, plants and trees are familiar images to convert the art of painting into the art of embroidery.

Chamba Embroidery: Process (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A finely sharpened wooden pen is used to paint on the cloth. It is dipped in black ink kept in a small container devised out of a shell.

This form of container, instead of plastic or ceramic cups, are preferred by most miniature artists.

Chamba Embroidery: Process (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A Kangra artist holds up a piece of cloth showing its transparent quality. He has completed his drawing and will now hand it over to the lady who will convert it into a rumal.

Chamba Embroidery: Process (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

After the drawing is completed by the artist, the woman begins to embroider the cloth. The colours are pre-determined either by her or in collaboration with the artist.

Chamba Embroidery: Process (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The crafts woman follows the contours, spaces and colours of the painting with her needle and thread, in the do-rukha or double-sided technique which is shared by Chamba and the embroidery of Kashmir.

The work is therefore exactly the same on both sides of the cloth.

Chamba Embroidery: Process (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Spools of floss threads in the most popularly used colours for a Chamba rumal, lie in a box near the embroiderer as she works.

Chamba Embroidery: Process (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A Chamba rumal depicting a Himachali woman carrying a ceremonial pot on her head is slowly developing under the nimble fingers of a young embroiderer.

Chamba Embroidery: Process (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A closer look at the embroidery will show how the technique used for this embroidery best suits the covering of larger areas of cloth.

Chamba Embroidery: Process (2018-03-31)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Notice the intricacy of the embroidery required for making a Chamba Rumal.

Chamba Embroidery: Process (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Trees and flowers are an intrinsic part of Chamba embroidery.

Here a tree slowly comes into being near the embroidered figure of a traditional Himachali woman.

Chamba Embroidery: Process (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Two women work together embroidering separate pieces. They are preparing traditional Chamba rumals for an exhibition in Delhi, the capital of India, where art connoisseurs and collectors are invited.

The women are part of a group organized by an NGO that supports and promotes the development and production of high quality Chamba rumals.

Chamba Embroidery: Process (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A woman follows traditional colours and patterns while embroidering a rumal that makes her town famous.

Chamba Embroidery: Process (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A senior lady in the group, who is also the supervisor on behalf of the NGO, embroiders a chamba rumal depicting Himachali dancers.

Chamba Embroidery: Process (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The Himachali dancers swirl on the surface of a Chamba rumal in the making.

This piece has a red base which is not as common. The long coat men wear is made of handwoven woolen cloth. Dancing by men and women is common at weddings in the state.

Chamba Embroidery: Product (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Within the contours of the drawing, spaces are heavily embossed in a backward and forward motion, with silk thread embroidery in darning stitch, crisscross stitch, herringbone stitch and satin stitch.

Outlines are in double running stitch for emphasis. Finally, the surface looks like a miniature painting in coloured thread, which is exactly what it is meant to be.

Chamba Embroidery: Product (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Folk figures, like those in the image, are not ‘classical’ subjects but are embroidered with the same fine embroidery skills as one with gods or kings as subjects.

Chamba Embroidery: Product (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Detail of a floral border that commonly frames the central images of a Chamba rumal.

It is embroidered with silk floss threads in a back and forth form of satin stitch. The resulting embossed effect is replicated on the underside as well.

Chamba Embroidery: Product (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

When an embroidery develops to its fullest extent, its embroidered areas achieve a richness in colour and quality.

It replicates a miniature painting from afar and only becomes known as an embroidered textile art work when the viewer rubs his palm over the silky textured surface.

Chamba Embroidery: Product (2018-03-29)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Credits: Story

Text: Jaya Jaitly
Photography: Chirodeep Chaudhuri
Artisans: Parikshit Sharma, Indu Sharma, Lalita Vakil
Ground Facilitator: Charu Verma
Documentary Video: Chirodeep Chaudhuri
Curation: Ruchira Verma

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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