Reimagining traditional Malay kerawang embroidery in fine Songket cloth
Explore the story of designer Bernard Chandran from Malaysia and find out how he came to create his look for The Commonwealth Fashion Exchange, 2018.
“Traditional
craftsmanship, that may be deemed mundane, dull to some, must be given a new
lease of life, a whole new perspective. We can create a ‘nouveau’ sense of modernity with these artisanal ideas, which would be sought
after on an international scale.”
Bernard Chandran
The Exchange: Malaysia
For The Commonwealth Fashion Exchange 2018, designer Bernard Chandran created a look in fine 'songket' - a royal Malay brocade. The look was unveiled at Buckingham Palace on February 19, 2018, and later moved to the Australian High Commission, London, where it was open to the public in the run up to the Commonwealth Heads of Government Summit, April 2018.
Malaysia: Designer Bernard Chandran
Bernard Chandran was born in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, grew up in an Islamic country and comes from a mixed parentage background of Indian and Chinese. He received a bachelor’s degree in Fine Arts from the Paris American Academy and Pattern Making at L’Union Des Chambers Syndicales Parisiennes, Paris. Bernard Chandran was the first non-European designer to win both the coveted Silk Cut Young Designers Award and the Open European contest for Look of the Year 2000. In 2007, he was conferred Dato (the Malaysian equivalent of a knighthood) by the Sultan of Pahang for his outstanding contributions to fashion design.
The story behind the look
Bernard chose to create his design in fine ‘songket’ – a royal Malay brocade, handwoven and patterned with gold and silver threads. He drew inspiration from Malay ‘kerawang’ – a style of traditional embroidery that involves cutting away the base-cloth to create a lace effect, contemporising the look with a geometric feel. The strapless dress is carefully structured and the floor-length coat is embroidered with wool yarn.
Bernard Chandran drawing his sketch by Bernard ChandranCommonwealth Fashion Council
Bernard Chandran's sketch by Bernard ChandranCommonwealth Fashion Council
Illustration of the look
The making of Bernard Chandran's pattern by Bernard ChandranCommonwealth Fashion Council
Close up of Bernard Chandran's coat by Bernard ChandranCommonwealth Fashion Council
Traditional materials
Bernard chose to create his design in fine ‘songket’ – a royal Malay brocade, handwoven and patterned with gold and silver threads.
Bernard Chandran creating his pattern by Bernard ChandranCommonwealth Fashion Council
Embroidery techniques
He drew inspiration from Malay ‘kerawang’ – a style of traditional embroidery that involves cutting away the base-cloth to create a lace effect, contemporising the look with a geometric feel.
Bernard Chandran's dress Bernard Chandran's dressCommonwealth Fashion Council
The Dress
The strapless dress was carefully structured.
Bernard Chandran's look by Bernard ChandranCommonwealth Fashion Council
The Coat
The floor-length coat was embroidered with wool yarn.
Side of Bernard Chandran's look at Buckingham PalaceCommonwealth Fashion Council
Final look on display at Buckingham Palace, 19 February 2018
Bernard Chandran's look by Bernard ChandranCommonwealth Fashion Council
Final look on display at the Australian High Commission, London, 22 February 2018
Behind the Scenes of The Commonwealth Fashion Exchange 2018Commonwealth Fashion Council
This content has been specifically curated for the Google Arts & Culture platform on behalf of the Commonwealth Fashion Exchange exhibition that launched on the 19th of February at Buckingham Palace in partnership with Swarovski, The Woolmark Company and MATCHESFASHION.COM.
The project, created and managed by Eco-Age, with the support of The Commonwealth Fashion Council and The British Fashion Council.
More information about the images is available by clicking on them.
Read more about the Commonwealth Fashion Exchange at http://eco-age.com/commonwealth-fashion-exchange/
