Hanbok that embraces both tradition and modernity
The Traditional Clothing Restoration Team of this exhibition referenced primarily representative paintings of each period. In developing patterns, adjustments were made to account for the average height of people today: 172 centimeters. Patterns that could show silhouettes seen in the paintings as beautifully as possible were developed.
This is a reproduction of women’s clothing depicted in the ancient tomb mural in Susan-ri. The basic jeogori worn by Goguryeo women in the 5th century was long and covered the hips, and the flips of jeogori were tied up with a belt around the waist. The neckband, collar, and hemline of jeogori and edges of sleeves were made of fabric of a different color or pattern from that of the body of jeogori to prevent jeogori from wearing out or becoming soiled, and to accentuate its beauty. Chima (skirt) was long enough to touch the ground, and was straight pleated and flared out towards the hem.
Inspired by artifacts from ancient tombs in Yeonggang-dong and Hwangseong-dong in Gyeongju and after studying paintings dating to Tang China, the rich style of aristocratic women of the Unified Silla period is reproduced here with beautifully patterned fabric. Patterns were dyed on two kinds of silk fabric of different thickness and transparency. Jeogori was produced by overlaying the two different silk fabrics, and chima was made with lightweight silk dyed in blue and patterned with silk.
Clothing of the Goryeo Dynasty
To show women in the Goryeo Dynasty as depicted in the painting Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara, the silk fabric with gold threads that had been found inside the pagoda in Bongseo-ri dating to the 12th century was reproduced to make chima of this piece. The loose fitting jeogori was made of shantung silk dyed in acorn color.
Women’s Clothing of the 16th Century Joseon Dynasty
During the 16th century, jeogori became loose and long, and the neckband, collar, hemline of jeogori, and edges of sleeveswere ornamented with fabric of different colors. Instead of fabric into which gold threads were woven, fabric pressed with gold patterns were used for ornamentation. Chima with a front longer than the back made of red mobondan silk was worn by women of the upper class as part of their ceremonial costume in the 16th century.
Women’s Clothing of the 18th Century Joseon Dynasty 1
These clothes are a reproduction of the clothes worn by the woman depicted in the famous painting A beautiful Woman by Sin Yun-bok (1758 ~ ?). The short, tightly-fitting jeogori and voluminous chima were made of fine ramie fabric. To display the voluminous silhouette of chima, many layers of undergarments made of ramie fabric, including mujigi chima (petticoat), were worn under chima.
This jacket is made of two men's modern jackets with used hanbok with magoja looks to impart a feeling of modernity. The pants is made of man's modern pants and hanbok baji.
The jacket is made from two men's jackets and has jeogori sleeves. The outer skirt has a traditional Korean scarf for a belt and is pleated with a silk organza from used hanbok, and the pants are made of two women's pants, have the shape of traditional Korean loose drawers, and bear a landscape pattern.
ONJIUM Research Institute of Korean Traditional Culture Under Hwadong Cultural Foundation ONJIUM is a research institute of Korean traditional culture. ONJIUM in Korean means "make things right and perfect." It is a workshop of artisans committed to creating heritage tomorrow by upholding and taking inspiration from traditional Korean culture, specifically with regard to clothing, cuisine, and housing, and adapting it for modern society.
ONJIUM has three studios where clothes are made, food is cooked, and houses are designed. The research fellows at each studio are striving to improve the 21st century Korean lifestyle by researching uniquely Korean clothing, cuisine, and housing and applying their findings to everyday modern living. Inspired by the spirit of the seonbi, the virtuous scholar of Korea’s olden days, the Clothing Studio of In 2013, ONJIUM introduced a traditional men’s garment called po made with modern materials and by modern production techniques through the special exhibition, Po, the Seonbi Spirit in Clothing. In 2014, the Studio conducted research to develop traditional materials with the support of the Hanbok Advancement Center. In 2015, the Studio participated in Korea Now!, a special exhibition on Korea held at Musée des Arts Décoratifs in commemoration of the 130th anniversary of establishment of diplomatic relations between Korea and France. The Studio is striving to create a new clothing culture through reinterpretation of traditional clothing and by suggesting modernized ceremonial dresses for weddings and first birthday parties.
Im Seonoc established the EGO DESIGN STUDIO (EDS) in 1996, and she had her first debut stage at S.F.A.A. SEOUL COLLETION in 1998. In 2003, she launched her own label, IMSEONOC, in Korea, and it was rebranded as PartspARTs IMSEONOC with a new look in 2011. Currently, She is a creative director of PartspARTs. She was a critic professor at Samsung Art and Design Institute (SADI), Korea from 2013 to 2015. After being selected as part of SEOUL’S 10 SOUL in 2010 and 2012 in Korea, she participated in a number of
exhibitions including SEOUL’S 10 SOUL exhibition in 2010-2013 in Paris and Shanghai, The Brilliant Art Project : Dream Society in 2013 in Seoul, MMCA Art Collaboration in 2015 in Korea, and Design Spectrum 2nd : Fashion Designer IMSEONOC in 2016 at Soda Museum. Also, she devoted herself as a costume director of KNCDC, Korea National Contemporary Dance Company in 2014 for the 'Bul-ssang' and the 'Already Not Yet' performances, 'The Little Prince' performance in 2015 in Korea, and the Sochi the XXII Olympic Winter Games Korean performance in 2014. She collaborated across disciplines at establishments including KOLON RE;CODE in 2015,
Seoul Arts Center in 2015, MMCA HYUNDAI MOTORS SERIES LEEBUL in 2014, and LEEUM Samsung Museum of Art in 2012, and she was in charge of design for uniforms at events including KNCDC in 2014, Ambassador of Chonbuk National University in 2015, and costumes for the 'Microphone' performance at ARKO Art Theater in Seoul in 2011. Since 1998, Her collection has been included in Seoul Collection, and she participated in numerous fashion shows including the Korea Heritage Fashion Show in 2011, 'Madame Freedom 2012' Fashion show in cinematic performance in 2012 in SAC in Korea, and tye F/W Street Fashion Show in 2016 in Seoul. She was selected as one of the VOGUE TALENTS in Italy vogue in 2013 and won a Gold Stevie Award for New Business Service of the Year in 2014, the Korea Fashion Prize of the Prime Minister's commendations in 2014, and a main prize at the Red Dot Awards 2016 for Communication Design.
Jung Misun launched her own label, NOHKE J & Who’s next, in 2009 in France and opened her first solo exhibition at La fashion galleria in 2009
in Paris. After she officially founded her own label, NOHKE, in 2010, she opened her first flagship store in 2011 in Seoul and collaborated with Lotte Department Store in 2014. Since 2011, she has shown her collection at Seoul Fashion Week and also at Shanghai Fashion Week from 2014.
She participated in a number of exhibitions and trade shows including Osaka Live Asia Collection in 2010 in Japan, Wizard of Oz at Shinsegae Gallery in 2009 in Korea, Tranoi (Paris), Fashion Coterie (NY), Workroom (Las Vegas) in 2011, 2012, and London & Paris Fashion Week sales campaign in 2014, 2015 in London and Paris. She also received the VOGUE ‘ART TO WEAR’ Award in 2008 in Korea and opened Seoul's 10 Seoul Paris & Milan popup store in 2016 in France after she received Seoul's 10 Seoul Award three consecutive times 2014 to 2016. She recently collaborated across disciplines at events including PUMA & DAZED CONPUSED X NOHKE in 2011 in Seoul, and she was in charge of costume design at The rite of spring G, Modern ballet project in 2016 in Korea.
KOLON INDUSTRIES founded their new brand, RE;CODE in March 2012, and RE;CODE started opening their pop-up stores at six locations in Korea including Shinsegae, Lotte, and Hyundai department stores in May 2012. It opened Fashion design Experience Center at Korea JobWorld and began exporting through Select Shop in six countries including the U.S. (New York), Hong Kong, and China in 2013. It also opened Communal Art Space at Myeong-dong Cathedral in 2014 and won the grand prize at the DFA_DesignFor Asia Awards for sustainability in 2015 in Hong Kong.
RE;CODE supported a few events including the Frieze Art Fair in 2013 in London, the Green Film Festival in 2014, 2015 in Seoul, and the Seoul Eco Bridge Festival in 2014 in Korea. RE;CODE also participated in a number of overseas trade shows including Berlin Capsule and participated in Korea Brand and Entertainment Expo in 2013 in London, Eco-Expo Korea in 2014 - 2015 in Seoul, the Slow Food Asia Pacific Festival in 2015, and the Seoul Design Festival in 2015. RE;CODE was invited as a speaker for the World Forum For a Responsible Economy in 2015 in France and the Korea · EU Eco Innovation Forum in 2015 in Seoul, and was selected as a representative of Korea at Y.E.S: yoox.com Estethica Sustainability in 2015 in Hong Kong.
Host_ Arumjigi Culture Keepers Foundation, WCO Hwadong Cultural Foundation
Exhibition Adviser_ Cho Hyo Sook, Kim So Hyun, Park Kyung Mee
Coordination_ Ko Jeong Ah, Kim Hae Jin
Hanbok Artisan_ Kim Jeong Ah, Lee Kyung Sun, Jeong Eun Mi
Contemporary Designer_ Im Seonoc, Jung Misun, RE;CODE
PR_ Kwak Eun Jung, Shin Hye Sun, Jeong Eun Joo