2016

Fashion Masterclass

Lette Verein Berlin

Visit Berlin Bauhaus Archiv for a highly fashionable exhibition and enjoy award-winning couture by students of the Lette Verein masterclass.

Couture Craftsmanship

Here Sascha Johrden is hand-sewing on his design of a couture dress to be presented at the "L.O.B. Sophisticated Fashion Award" 2016 during the Leipzig opera ball.

Sascha is a 2015 graduate of the fashion design education at Lette Verein Berlin. He was one of eight top graduates selected for the Lette masterclass, an extra course initiated and led by Lette Verein lecturer Jochen Pahnke and endowed by the Berlin Senate Department for Labor, Integration and Women.

On top of their three-year education, these future "masters" have the chance to further sharpen their creative and manufacturing profile aiming at competing in international fashion awards and exhibitions.

The Fitting

Sascha and his favourite model Johanna in a last fitting right before the competition is on in Leipzig.

Sascha spent about 100 hours of pattern making, draping, testing and sewing, in fact a real couture approach of creating such an outstanding evening dress.

The Winning Dress

He made it! Sascha won the "L.O.B. Sophisticated Fashion Award" during the Leipzig opera ball in 2016. His design was highly praised for its sophistication and craftsmanship.

Perfection in every Detail

The dress is made of light sea-green satin silk with an integrated corsage and a draped skirt with a long train.

The corsage has an interesting structure: Sascha added flexible rattan rods to pre-manufactured "tunnels", a very common and sophisticated manufacturing process used for traditional Bavarian costumes.

The rattan rods were artistically put into place, thus sculpting the female body in the perfect shape. Row after row on the silk satin was precisely sewn before the rods were inserted.

An intimate scene showing the back of the bodice with the traditional fastening by cord.

Although the bodice was made to measure and seems to be very tight and stiff, by wearing the dress the rattan rods react on body temperature and become softer. Even the skirt can be lifted for dancing thanks to a loop on the tip of the train.

Johanna, goddess-like in sea-silk satin.

A very special Honour for Sascha

His award-winning dress is on display in the fashion department of the Berlin Kunstgewerbemuseum (Museum of Decorative Arts) in close company to timeless exhibits by Paul Poiret, Christian Dior, Cristobàl Balenciaga, Coco Chanel and many more.

Bauhaus Archiv - Museum für Gestaltung
Have a stroll around famous Berlin Bauhaus Archiv for an exhibition of fashion designed by students of the Lette Verein 2016 fashion masterclass. They were especially honoured to exhibit publicly during the Berlin "Long Night of the Museums" on August 27th, 2016.

The Bauhaus Archiv in Berlin is a very renowned museum for design. It researches and presents the history and the enormous impact of world famous German Bauhaus, the major school of the 20th century for architecture, design and arts.

An adequate location to bring together timeless design classics and contemporary fashion like this combination made by master student Mariya Filipenko.

Mariya's design focusses on classical tailoring with an edgy twist. She combined chocolate brown woolen pants in mid-length with an eccentric X-line tailleur.

Due to the exceptional material for the jacket, a synthetic fabric usually made for tents and tarps, the sharp seaming and couture-like organic collar is reminiscent to the typical look of the Eighties represented by famous French designer Thierry Mugler.

Austerity meets comfort, an eclectic mixture of layers, shapes and fabrics.

This is Dan Winkler's approach to fashion design: traditional style codes need to be broken by trying out yet unseen combinations of clothes wrapped around the human body and layers organically floating into each other. An exceptional signature of taste with style!

Dan's ideas seem to be endless, and already in his well-made fashion sketches he shows his outstanding skills and understanding of 3D design thinking.

For his outfits, Dan managed to cooperate with a Portuguese textile company that is specialized on virgin wool fabrics for plaids, scarves and cushions. So the long comfortable coat is made of a large woolen plaid in herringbone pattern.

Zulu Street Couture by Dustin LeMarque

The story behind Dustin's designs is closely linked to his family. His mother is from South Africa, his German father a passionate hunter. Therefore, Dustin's inspiration tags were Africa, Zulu culture, hunting and workwear.

In his urban street wear collection, with many pieces in unisex style, he combined leather bomber jackets, polka dot skirts, coats and pants in a very contemporary and yet unseen way.

The designs are distinctly marked by Dustin's typical humorous yet ingenious approach of applying large graphical fabric appliqués like dots, symbols and stripes, a reminiscence to African Zulu war painting.

Dustin's skillful fashion illustrations already show his fashion expertise of conceptual thinking and playfully combining garments in a very unique and humorous way.

For the Bauhaus project, Dustin manufactured three outfits, one of it the polka dot coat as seen here.

Free Falling

The polka dot coat by Dustin LeMarque at Bauhaus Archiv Berlin.

The "Procession of the Princes" Dress

And here is Johanna again in another evening gown designed by Sascha Johrden. A bodice belt made out of Sascha's favourite rattan rod technique and a
high-necked dress with a full skirt.

Have a closer look and follow the "story" of this very special fabric.....

The Design of the Fabric

It is the world famous Procession of Princes (German: Fürstenzug) in the German city of Dresden, a larger-than-life sized image of about 23.000 tiles made of the popular Meissen porcelain.

With its 102 metres of length, it is the world's largest china artwork showing all the margraves, dukes, electors and kings of the dynasty of Wettin who reigned the German region of Saxonia from 1127 to 1873.

The "Fürstenzug" fabric cut into pattern pieces for the bodice

The design and pattern making was a very special challenge for Sascha: the idea was to arrange the pieces according to the special fabric pattern so that the images of the procession become vividly clear on the dress.

Therefore, Sascha developed in 3D: he decided about the allocation of seaming and images by trying out and draping the fabric on the dress form.

An insight into the manufacturing process, the middle parts already have been assembled by machine-sewing.

The half-finished bodice with a procession all around......

A bandage for a bodice?

As the rattan rods, now inserted into the bodice, are flexible for shaping, the bodice was put on a dress form, then sprayed with water and later wrapped with toile fabric. This special bandage technique eventually makes for the required body-shaping silhouette!

A true Royal Appearance

The Fürstenzug dress in full view shortly before it is brought to completion. For the back of the skirt, two pieces each in full length and width were manufactured and it gets clear that in fact the fabric pattern mainly is arranged in stripes of procession images.

History meets Zeitgeist

In many respects.....a couture dress with a graceful attitude reminiscent of former times in the cool and timeless architecture of Bauhaus Archiv Berlin.

Many of the photos and this video were made by Dennis Zorn, a graduate of the photo design education at Lette Verein Berlin, which makes for a wonderful creative synergy of photo and fashion designers who met there.

Now, take your time and immerse into the serene atmosphere of the masterclass designs at Bauhaus Archiv Berlin.....

Lette Verein
Mitwirkende: Geschichte

Johanna Blohm
Mariya Filipenko
Laura Geisler
Markus Hawlik
Karsten Hintz
Sascha Johrden
Dustin LeMarque
Sakyi Kwaku Mannah
Jochen Pahnke
Valentina Patzlaff
Martina Vogt
Dan Winkler
Dennis Zorn

Bauhaus-Archiv/ Museum für Gestaltung
Kunstgewerbemuseum Berlin

Quelle: Alle Medien
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