Temporary Exhibit: 2015 Golden Threads of Bethlehem

The Malak

The malak is a glamorous costume decorated with the couching tahriry stitch, which started in Bethlehem and nearby Beit Jala and spread to Beit Sahour and villages around Jerusalem. It is unlike the embroidery of any other part of Palestine. It is embroidered with geometric patterns, outlined in gold or silver cords on the chest and sides of the dress.

One feature that makes the malak dress special is its fabric, which is hand woven in Bethlehem, and comes in stripes of black, red, green and orange. The different pieces of fabric are connected with the manajel stitch in silk thread of many colors. It was customary to be married in this dress, not only in Bethlehem, but in many Palestinian cities. Women also saved one of their malak costumes to be buried in.

As a result, many of the finest dresses have been lost. In the second half of the 20th century, production of this style declined, to the point that at present, it is hard to find a woman in Bethlehem who wears the malak dress.

The Malak and the textile industry

The Malak dress sparked a textile industry, and influenced generations of village fashion as villages near Bethlehem adapted parts of the malak into their own style. It was often worn as a wedding dress.

By 1920, making the malak dress had become a business; it had become a status symbol to order a trousseau from Bethlehem. Weddings like this one often combined white dresses and the malak.

The malak remains a testament to the individual lives of women who helped transform their traditional costume craft into a thriving industry and influencer of fashion across Palestine.

Pattern

The distinctive patterns were applied to specific parts of the dresses, making them clearly recognizable as originating from Bethlehem. For example, the sleeves were embroidered with a pattern called “watches” in couching technique, repeated three times. In addition the side panels, had a pattern called ‘tree of life’ in cross-stitch evolving above ‘watches'.

The technique

Bethlehem became the fashion center of Palestine due to the development of the technique of couching embroidery, which resembled styles found in Turkey, Greece and Persia.

Bethlehem Textiles Fragment

This image details the side of a woman's Malak dress.

Embroidery threads for Bethlehem couching stitch

The tahriry

The couching stitch is the main form of embroidery in Bethlehem.

Thob Ikhdari

This Thob Ikhdari has gold thread attached to the fabric by tiny stitches made with silk. The space between is filled with satin stitch. Women of all religions wore the malak.

On this chest panel, you can see round designs and three crosses that are typical of the malak.

Thob Itafi

The malak influenced fashion in the villages around Bethlehem and Jerusalem.

You can see the influence in this dress from north of Jerusalem, called Thob Itafi because of its couching embroidery.

Khaddameh vs. the Malak

This dress, called khaddameh, was made for daily use in Bethlehem. The fabric and embroidery is the main differences between the khaddameh and the malak. While the malak is made of silk and linen striped fabric specific to Bethlehem, the khaddameh uses plain linen without stripes.

Similarly, the malak is embroidered on the chest panel and sides with an ornate couching stitch, while the khaddemeh’s chest panel is embroidered with the simpler and less costly cross stitch. The sleeves of this dress are done in the kumm ‘irdan style in which the sleeves are long, pointed, and triangular. The wearer of this dress would tie the two sleeves behind her back while working to make movement easier.

Taksiri Jacket

Over the malak dress, women wore exquisite taksiri jackets. This velvet jacket uses couching stitches and similar motifs that can also be found on the chest panel of the malak.

Headdresses

Traditionally, beneath their white headscarves, married women wore headdress adorned with their gold bridal coins and coral.

The Chain of Seven Souls

These sisters wear felt jackets, as well as the white shawl typical of Bethlehem.

Jewelry was an important part of women's attire, but in Bethlehem the most important piece was the Chain of Seven Souls. It would tie under the chin and holds the girl's or woman's headdress in place.

The malak remains a testament to the individual lives of women who helped transform their traditional costume craft into a thriving industry and influencer of fashion across Palestine.