Art in Fashion: MASP's Rhodia Collection

MASP - Museu de Arte de São Paulo Assis Chateaubriand

Art in Fashion: MASP's Rhodia Collection
For the first time, MASP showed, from 23.10.2015 to 14.2.2016, its complete Rhodia fashion collection, featuring clothes created through a collaboration between artists and designers in the 1960s. The collection of 79 pieces, selected by Pietro Maria Bardi (1900–1999), the museum’s founding director, was donated in 1972 by Rhodia. The French chemical manufacturer promoted its synthetic fabrics in Brazil through fashion spectacles, collections and press articles, according to a strategy devised by Lívio Rangan (1933–1984), the company’s visionary publicity manager. The fashion shows presented between 1960 and 1970 were true spectacles that brought together professionals from the fields of theater, dance, music and the arts. Held at the Feira Nacional da Indústria Têxtil [National Textile Industry Fair] (Fenit), Brazil’s largest fashion event at the time, each show featured up to 150 designs, with two collections per year traveling throughout Brazil and internationally. The group of pieces belonging to MASP is the only one still remaining from this production and includes articles of clothing from different fashion collections. Each garment is a custom-made, unique piece made solely for promoting the brand. Keenly aware of international fashion trends in the 1960s – one of the most revolutionary periods in the history of fashion – Rangan was a source of information regarding international trends that was reprocessed through the combined effort of artists and fashion designers. Rangan’s choice of artists revealed his interest in dialoguing with ​ ​contemporary art, and the designs they produced reflect the main trends in art and fashion in those years. Rhodia’s fashion spectacles had a powerful impact on the media thanks to the participation of well-known Brazilian artists and musicians, boosting the Brazilian fashion system. MASP’s fashion collection included pieces with fabric patterns designed by artists who worked with geometric abstraction, such as Willys de Castro (1926–1988), Hércules Barsotti (1914–2010), Antonio Maluf (1926–2005), Waldemar Cordeiro (1925–1973), and Alfredo Volpi (1896–1988); with informal abstraction, such as Manabu Mabe (1924–1997) and Antonio Bandeira (1922–1967); with popular Brazilian references, such as Carybé (1911–1997), Aldemir Martins (1922–2006), Lula Cardoso Ayres (1910–1987), Heitor dos Prazeres (1898–1966), Manezinho Araújo (1910–1993), Gilvan Samico (1928–2013), Francisco Brennand and Carmélio Cruz; and by others, associated with pop art, such as Nelson Leirner and Carlos Vergara.​ ​MASP’s Rhodia Collection evidences the creative potential of a collaboration between art, fashion, design and industry, which has remained unique and unparalleled in Brazil until today, inspiring creativity and new discussions in the current fashion scene.

Straight short dress (dress shirt)
Artist: Aldemir Martins
Stylist: attributed to Jorge Farré

Jersey
1966

Short trapeze dress
Artist: Aldemir Martins
Stylist: Jorge Farré

Bouclê synthetic fabric
1966

Set of blouses
Artist: Aldemir Martins

Rhodianyl silk shantung
1960

Set of blouse and shorts
Artist: Aldemir Martins
Stylist: Alceu Penna

Rhodiela shantung
1968

Short flared dress
Artist: Aldemir Martins
Stylist: Jorge Farré

Padded tergal
1966

Set of tunic and pants
Artist: Aldemir Martins
Stylist: José Ronaldo

Rhodalba fabric
1963

Short dress with skarf
Artist: Aldemir Martins
Stylist: Alceu Penna

Rhodianyl veil
1967

Coat
Artist: Antonio Bandeira
Stylist: Dener Pamplona

Shantung
1960

Short flared dress
Artist: Antonio Maluf

Rhodalba
1960

Short dress
Artist: Antonio Maluf

Knitting wool and knitted Rhodalba
1960

Mini overalls (overalls dress)
Artis: Carlos Vergara
Stylist: Ugo Castellana

Rhodalba jersey
1960

Long tunic dress
Artist: Carmélio Cruz

Synthetic peau d´ange
1960

Long dress
Artist: Carmélio Cruz

Rhodalba jersey
1966

Set of coat and pants
Artist: Carmélio Cruz
Stylist: Alceu Penna

Rhodiela mixed crêpe and napa thread
1965

Long dress with skarf
Artist: Carybé
Stylist: Sonia Coutinho

Rhodianyl jersey

Long dress with skarf (evening gown)
Artist: Danilo Di Prete
Stylist: Dener Pamplona

Rhodianyl musselina
1963

Long overalls (palazzo pajamas)
Artist: Fernando Lemos
Stylist: Jorge Farré

Rhodiela fabric
1966

Empire long dress
Artist: Fernando Lemos
Stylist: Ugo Castellana

Rhodalba jersey
1968

Long dress (evening gown)
Artist: Fernando Lemos
Stylist: Alceu Penna and Ugo Castellana

Rhodalba silk shantung
1968

Set of blouse and shorts
Artist: Fernando Lemos

Tergal

Straight long dress (evening gown)
Artist: attributed to Fernando Lemos

Rhodianyl jersey

Long overalls (palazzo pajamas)
Artist: Fernando Martins
Stylist: Alceu Penna and Ugo Castellana

Rhodianyl
1968

Long dress (evening gown)
Artist: Fernando Martins
Stylist: Alceu Penna and Ugo Castellana

Rhodalba veil
1968

Long overalls
Artist: Fernando Martins
Stylist: Alceu Penna and Ugo Castellana

Rhodosá fabric
1960

Long dress
Artist: Francisco Brennand
Stylist: Alceu Penna

Bemberg fabric
1965

Flared shorts (short skirt pants)
Artist: Francisco Brennand
Stylist: Ugo Castellana

Synthetic piqué
1960

Mini dress
Artist: Genaro de Carvalho
Stylist: Jorge Farré

Rhodianyl
1966

Long overalls
Artist: Genaro de Carvalho
Stylist: Alceu Penna and Ugo Castellana

Tergal

Set of blouse and pants
Artist: Genaro de Carvalho
Stylist: Ugo Castellana

Rhodosá fabric
1960

Long coat
Artist: Genaro de Carvalho

Tergal

Long dress (evening gown)
Artist: Genaro de Carvalho

Rhodianyl veil
1960

Long dress (evening gown)
Artist: Gilvan Samico
Stylist: Alceu Penna and Ugo Castellana

Rhodalba jersey
1968

Long tunic dress
Artist: Glauco Rodrigues
Stylist: Ugo Castellana

Rhodalba jersey
1968

Tunic
Artist: Heitor dos Prazeres
Stylist: José Ronaldo

Rhodosá
1963

Blouse and skirt
Artist: Hérculos Barsotti

Rhodianyl shantung
1960

Long overalls (palazzo pajamas)
Artist: attributed to Hércules Barsotti
Stylist: Alceu Penna

Metal jersey
1968

Set of blouse, skirt and coat
Artist: attributed to Hércules Barsotti

Amorella
1960

Long dress (layered column dress)
Artist: Hércules Barsotti
Stylist: Alceu Penna

Rhodosá fabric
1966

Short trapeze dress
Artist: Hércules Barsotti

Rhodianyl musselina
1967

Straight long dress
Artist: Hermelindo Fiaminghi
Stylist: Alceu Penna

Rhodalba knitting wool
1968

Long flared dress (evening gown)
Artist: Isabel Pons

Rhodianyl organza
1965

Straight long dress (evening gown)
Artist: Ivan Ferreira Serpa
Stylist: Jorge Farré

Rhodianyl veil
1960

Tunic
Artist: João Suzuki

Rhodalba shantung
1964

Long dress (evening gown)
Artist: Kenishi Kaneko
Stylist: Alceu Penna and Ugo Castellana

Rhodalba
1968

Mini dress
Artist: Licínio de Almeida

Rhodianyl fabric
1960

Long overalls (palazzo pajamas)
Artist: Licínio de Almeida
Stylist: Alceu Penna and Ugo Castellana

Rhodiela
1968

Long dress (evening gown)
Artist: Licínio de Almeida
Stylist: Ugo Castellana

Rhodianyl fabric
1960

Long overalls
Artist: Licínio de Almeida
Stylist: Alceu Penna

Knitting wool and knitted Rhodalba
1960

Tunic
Artist: Lívio Abramo
Stylist: José Nunes

Rhodosá fabric
1962

Tunic
Artist: Lívio Abramo

Rhodosá fabric
1963

Short overalls with skarf
Artist: Luigi Zanotto

Bemberg fabric
1960

Short dress
Artist: Lula Cardoso Ayres
Stylist: Alceu Penna and Jorge Farré

Rhodosá fabric
1966

Long dress (evening gown)
Artist: Lula Cardoso Ayres

Rhodianyl jersey
1965

Mini overalls
Artist: Manezinho Araújo

Rhodosá fabric
1960

Short trapeze dress
Artist: Maria Bonomi

Rhodianyl jersey
1968

Long dress (evening gown)
Artist: Moacyr Rocha
Stylist: Alceu Penna and Ugo Castellana

Rhodosá
1968

Long dress with tail (evening gown)
Artist: Nelson Leirner
Stylist: Alceu Penna and Ugo Castellana

Rhodianyl
1968

Short dress (dress shirt)
Artist: Nelson Leirner

Rhodianyl jersey
1960

Set of blouse and pants
Artist: Tikashi Fukushima
Stylist: Alceu Penna

Rhodianyl veil
1960

Long dress (evening gown)
Artist: Tomoshige Kusuno
Stylist: Alceu Penna and Ugo Castellana

Rhodianyl musselina
1968

Short dress with skarf
Artist: Willys de Castro

Rhodianyl organza
1968

Mini dress
Artist: Willys de Castro
Stylist: Alceu Penna and Ugo Castellana

Rhodianyl Jersey
1968

Short trapeze dress
Artist: Willys de Castro
Stylist: Alceu Penna

Rhodalba Jersey
1967

Mini overalls
Artist: Willys de Castro

Bemberg fabric
1960

Straight long dress
Artist: Willys de Castro
Stylist: Alceu Penna

Tergal
1966

Straight long dress
Artist: Willys de Castro

Rhodosá fabric
1966

Credits: Story

"Art in Fashion: MASP's Rhodia Collection"
23.10.2015 - 14.2.2016
Curatorship: Adriano Pedrosa, artistic director; Patricia Carta, assistant-curator of Fashion; Tomás Toledo, curator

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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