Toile, back, for Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother's coronation dress

This rare surviving toile was made for the coronation dress of Queen Elizabeth, The Queen Mother, for the coronation of George VI on 12 May 1937, at Westminster Abbey. The toile and the final coronation dress were designed by the British designer Elizabeth Handley-Seymour (1867-1948), known as Madame Handley-Seymour.

Toiles are prototype or practice garments that help dressmakers adjust and fit their designs. They are made from cheap fabric, to refine the design to avoid wasting the expensive fabric of the final garment. This toile is made of calico, an inexpensive cotton, while the final coronation dress was made of silk. The design is a sleeveless, full length court dress, with a long skirt. The embroidery pattern for the finished dress is painted in gold paint on the toile. It shows the emblems of the United Kingdom: roses, thistles, leeks and shamrocks. It also features the emblems of British Dominions at the time, including Canada, New Zealand and Australia. This design was embroidered on the final dress in gold thread by the Royal School of Needlework.

Madame Handley-Seymour opened her dressmaking business in New Bond Street, London in 1915. She designed gowns for the royal court, weddings and society events from the 1920's through to the 1940's. She designed the Queen Mother's wedding dress and trousseau (going away wardrobe) in 1923. She also designed for Queen Mary and was reportedly one of her favourite dressmakers.