The form of dress worn nowadays by the women of Elymbos is different from the old costume. In the old days it was made of rich silk, gold-brocaded materials with embroideries and an abundance of jewellery. The whole costume is called the “kava’i” (i.e. “kavadi”) after the principal garment. The costume shown here is a combination of the old and the new, as recorded by Tatiana Ikonomidou-Yiannara. It includes the “vraka” (braies), a short bodice and a chemise, all made of white cotton or linen; the seams are sewn using the “repunta” stitch. Next comes the more recent “sakofoustano” or “sakos”, made up of a skirt and a “bolka”. The sakofoustano, under different names and made of different materials, was worn in all parts of Greece from the late 19th century. Over that are the kava’i, made of striped silk, and the “chrysokondosso”, a black felt jacket with gold embroidery all round. The sash round the kava’i is made of printed black calico folded lengthwise four times and knotted in front. The footwear consists of knitted orange stockings and “yiminia”, a sort of slipper with patent leather uppers. In the headdress, the innermost items are two kerchiefs (the “antitsembera”) forming the “gyros”. The “lahouri” or “mallitiko” is a black outer kerchief of fine woollen material imported from Constantinople or Smyrna; its two ends are tied in a large knot on one side, just above the ear. Sewn on along both long sides are the “pitsilia” (decorative beads). The ornaments attached to the headdress are the “gazi” or “gandzi” and the “koutelitis”; the earrings are called “skolaritsia” or “kambanes”; round the neck are the “ambrakami” and the “myrimidia”; and on the breast the “yordaliki” or “ordaliki” with its “kloni”, which have “herakia” suspended from them, and a chain with three “golfia”. Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation Collection
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