Cypress slat folding fan (hiōgi), Heian Period Costumes

During the Heian period (794-1185), before the birth of kimono, a beautiful costume culture blossomed. By the eleventh century the Chinese style costumes (karafu) prevalent earlier in the Imperial Court evolved into uniquely Japanese garments, such as the formal uniform with round-collared jacket (sokutai), the less formal, round-collared kariginu, the women’s layered costumes (itsutsuginu-karakoromo, popularly referred to as a “twelve layer costume” jūnihitoe), and inner pleated trousers (keiko).