A Macchh ki Suiyan or fish-bone motif repeats to create a textured trellis on this fabric, a particular variety of brocade from Varanasi called Tanchoi. The Tanchoi is satin-based, and its structure is believed to have Chinese origins. It was woven in the 19th century in Gujarat in western India, and its absorption into the Varanasi repertory is believed to be from early to mid 20th century onwards. The textile was commissioned for the Visvakarma exhibition on the theme of the Jaali presented in 1987-88 in Moscow.