Paithani Panel -Details

A part of the early commissions for Visvakarma, the intention in the commissioning of this textile was the reproduction of a refinement and scale of the floral border, seen in Paithani textiles of the Deccan and western India from the 19th century. This is created using a rare technique of interlocking the wefts, used in a different way also in the Kani shawls of Kashmir. The shade of yellow chosen here references the tradition of Pitambar, silk fabrics worn for auspicious and ceremonial purposes among worshippers of certain Hindu sects. Equally, it is Kesari, of the Indian mango. The stark field of the textile contrasts with the subtle metallic and silk border, which itself mimics the art of metal enamelling.

The body of the silk panel is a rich yellow colour, enclosed by a gold border on all sides. The border is finished with a traditional design of a four-petal rosette, alternating with a group of scalloped leaves. These motifs are joined by angular stems, creating a cohesive and balanced design. On either side of the border, pairs of muthras (dotted guard borders) enclose a repeating parrot-like form, a common element in Paithani textiles. Although only three shades appear in the rosettes, the sophisticated colour balance is evident throughout the entire textile.