Ensemble, Corset, & Ensemble

Left: “Kiss Me Dogon” evening ensemble / Christian Lacroix / France, 1992 / Silk chiffon, metal / Lent by Christian Lacroix
Christian Lacroix is one of the most theatrical and extravagant designers working today. Inspired by a vision of exoticism that mingles African and Asian themes, and drawing on the splendor of ethnic jewelry, Lacroix has created a fantasy corset dress.

Center: Beaded “corset” / East Africa, 20th century / Beads, metal / Lent by The American Museum of Natural History
The Dinka are an East African people and, like the Masai, their clothing is minimal, but their adornment is striking. Beaded corsets are traditionally worn by young Dinka men to indicate their age. These corsets are not removed until it is time to change to one of a different color. Red and black corsets are worn by 15- to 25-year-olds; pink and purple by the 25-30 age set, and yellow by those over 30. Today some men have replaced the corset with a beaded belt. Dinka women rarely wear corsets; if they do, the corset is cut open on the occasion of marriage.

Right: “Kitu” evening ensemble / John Galliano for Christian Dior Couture / France, Spring/Summer 1997 / Painted silk taffeta, cotton, plastic boning, metal, beads / Lent by Christian Dior
Fashion today has become increasingly global and multi-cultural. Among the primary exponents of “ethnic” fashion is John Galliano. In 1997, he created an acclaimed collection for Dior that was inspired by the traditional dress and adornment of East Africa. This ensemble, for example, includes a so-called “Masai corset.”