Sanganer Directory -Installation

Around 700 different blocks were sourced from various printing workshops in Sanganer near Jaipur to create this directory. These are both foral and geometrical patterns. While the scalloped grid's outline is printed with Kharri, a thick paste — in a technique where the blocks are first used to print impressions of their patterns, over which gold foil is then applied — the patterns which are filled in the small compartments use synthetic dyes. This commission was inspired by a directory of over 1000 patterns in a late 18-th century printed sample from India, which is in the collection of the Textile Museum in Washington, D. C.

Sanganer, located near Jaipur, has been known for its high-quality block-printed cotton for centuries. The industry's origins are unclear, but it is thought to have originated from the ancient printing traditions of Gujarat or Malwa. The traditional Sanganer print often features delicate floral sprays on a white or pastel blue, or yellow ground of fine cotton, which allows the print to be visible on both sides of the fabric. The floral motifs, such as the iris, lily, narcissus, rose, and carnation, favoured by the Mughal emperors and their ateliers, are not native to the local area, adding a unique and sophisticated touch to the prints. Overall, the Sanganer prints are known for their delicate beauty and attention to detail.

The format for the design directory of Sanganer prints was inspired by a historic example preserved at the Textile Museum in Washington, dating from the late 18th century. The directory features around 700 wooden blocks from existing workshops in Sanganer, showcasing the wide range of designs and patterns that were traditionally used in their block-printed cotton fabrics. This directory serves as a valuable reference for designers and textile enthusiasts, providing a glimpse into the rich history and craftsmanship of Sanganer printing.