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Jewels Start a New Gold-Rush, Vogue

1933-07-15

Condé Nast Archive

Condé Nast Archive
New York, United States

And now it looks as if we are going back on the gold standard—that is, in jewellery. Gold, now that it is so valuable that currency topples because of it, is being taken up with alacrity by Frenchwomen. Huge gold bracelets are slipped over pull-on gloves by day; flat gold necklaces lie at the base of throats, and large gold clips set with topazes hold scarfs or sashes. • You surely spotted it at once—that dog-collar on the opposite page—one of the newest things in jewellery. But you can't compare it with the terrifying dog-collar of grandmother's day. Not at all, for this is a distinctly young and modern version, adorable with the new ruffle-edged or high-draped evening neck-lines on a swan-necked (how romantic that sounds!) girl who knows how to carry it off with charm. • If you have but one jewel, do have a colossal one. One magnificent jewel is enough—so long as it is large and important. And. by colossal, we mean something like that huge plaque of diamonds the lady holds at the right. • Bulk and more bulk seems to be the cry of the moment in jewels. Suddenly we have seen the beauty of an exaggerated third dimension, a definite "relief" effect. In the March 1 issue, on page 25. we gave you in a clip the first hint of this trend, and now it is even more pronounced. The bracelets and rings on these two pages are beautiful examples of this external volume. • Red silk tasselled cords hang down one's bare back from this necklace of eight strands of bead rubies—which Cartier made for the beautiful Madame Sert • Yellow gold is the news of the Boivin necklace, second, fringed with emeralds • Paris has been taken by storm by bracelets like these colossal Boivin ones. The first may be of platinum or gold and is inlaid with a huge motif of diamonds. The other is of bulky gold knobs with serpent-like heads of huge cut topazes • You can hardly call that Mauboussin pin held in the lady's hand a brooch—a "plaque" more nearly describes it. It is flat and almost solid with diamonds—cut, round, and baguette—, and it shows the very recent passion for tremendous jewels • As flexible as a Chinese toy is that Janesich earring, of diamond sections, with rubies fringing the diamond drop • And here above is the revived dog-collar—Cartier's modern version, of sapphires, emerald melons, and diamonds • The new cry for bulkiness in rings is beautifully translated in these two by Mauboussin. The baby-finger ring has a cabochon emerald in a diamond plaque. The other, like a knight's signet, has an octagonal diamond set in platinum

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  • Title: Jewels Start a New Gold-Rush, Vogue
  • Fashion House: Cartier; Boivn: Mauboussin; Janesich
  • Date Created: 1933-07-15
  • Location Created: United States
  • Provenance: Vogue, July 15, 1933
  • Photographer: Georges Lepape
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